100 year swell

Well according to some of the forecasters the swell we are having right now on the North Shore is a 100 year event. 12foot faces or 6ft Hawaiian. Surfed Haleiwa yesterday on my longboard and id say there were 5ft sets about every half hour.

Jetstream has dropped to its wintertime position in the summertime.

Weird but im not going to complain.

Those forcasters are forgetful people, never look outside, and read only their data.

Typically, summertime produces 3-6 N swells from the Aluetians, making the entire N shore of all the inslands break like small winter daze.

Some summers can be worse, but those are the anamalies.

I think this is the third N swell this summer.

I hear that satelite coverage is curently spotty at best over generation points in the North Pacific. I hear they are pretty much “guessing” right now but don’t want you to know about it. Case in point: We’ve been getting exaggerated predictions for southerly action all summer - guys from San Jose showing up in droves, and way too early, all for nothing - and this morning things switch around and there were head high sets coming in and no one around. Who’s on it? Not your Premium Members. That’s for sure.

perhaps a conspiracy beyween shop owners, forecasters and clothing manufacturers?-hype some bullshit blip on the radar, they show up en mass to drivel-well now that we are here, what to do?let’s hit the surf shop and buy something… it’s time to rage against the machine!!

Howzit J.Troy, It’ll still be there tomorrow just a little smaller. Hanalei was still in the 4 ft range today and we’re always a couple of feet smaller than Oahu, we just get it first.Aloha,Kokua

Today was a very good day of Oahu surf for a couple reasons:

  1. junior high and high school back in session

  2. UH back in session

  3. the weekend is over, and so are all the contests

  4. swell on all shores

  5. clean conditions all day. i finally got to use my skip frye knock-off fish at 3s. Light crowd. No donkeys in the line-up. Consistent roping waves with no drop-ins.

  6. a triceps burn that I havent’ experienced since I went on a surf trip.

I hope you all get to score some fun ones this week. It’s gonna be good.

So the second swell has hit the NW buoy at 1:00PM and reading 8ft and almost 17sec…WOW!!! This one might be bigger than the last…looks like maybe 7-8ft sets…

Meanwhile, we get pissy rain and winter winds. Very strange for August.

http://www.coastaldata.transport.wa.gov.au/tides/real_time_comparison.html

were gettin hammered at the moment…

waves on top of waves…

some serious erosion going on…

regards

BERT