Hey Greg,
I’ve only done this on a paddleboard. The plastic peels back like a sticker, kind of have to coax it a bit at first.
You can even adjust the dried lam afterwards.
Oh yeah, I cut the cloth ON the board, then put the layers down on the plastic in reverse order, if that makes sense.
Hope this helps,
George
Yes, I understand. I have a few 1 pound blanks I was trying to figure out what to do with. I’m going to give it a whirl. Two layers of 6 on top, wet out together and cut lapped, and a single 6 on the bottom, also cut lapped. Maybe a 4 oz deck patch for added dent resistance?
thanks for this tip. I’ll let you know if it works out. I assume color on the foam would be very muted under the microballon paste?
Davo Detrich over in Cocoa told me something that got me thinking also. Concerning layering 6 and 4 and 6 and the result is stronger because the weave of one weight cloth fills the void of the other different weight. Or something like that. I’ll start a new thread.
So, I got one finished.
Well, not all the way finished, but enough to paddle it for the next couple of weeks until Jami goes in for reconstructive shoulder surgery. She had to be able to do some paddling before hand, and I was lagging big time. So I just hotcoated the thing and knocked off the zits (there were plenty) with a surform. Glued on a pad, stuck in the biggest fin I had and we took off.
It truly is a magical thing watching something you made do what it was you set out to make it do… (?)
Finished weight right now is just a bit over 21 pounds, but Im going to take it back down to the weave this winter and try to make it sexy. It will then get a gloos coat too, but after my bro paints on it. Hell, I may just leave it ghetto. Heres a shot of the rocker (or lack teofher)
I got the pad from a big 5 on sale for 5 bucks and its super cush.
We’ll be doing some more paddling over the week and into the middle of next month, I’ll get some “action” shots… I particullary interested in getting a pic of her stand up paddling like she was lastnight. This thing is 21" wide!!! Ridiculous. But as far as how it goes…
really straight, knee paddles very well and railroads bumps, pretty much everything I set out to make it do. Next round will see the knee wells moved back about 4 inches and some bow work. Ill try to take a pick of what the water does when I paddle, but I wanted it to flow out of the way more…
But all in all, I give my first paddle board the “MEGASHAKKA!!!”
Last night was the first annual Cheateaux Wine and Pumkin Carving Extravaganza… this was my entry. And since I was the judge, I won. So I drank some more wine…
it looks killer mate!
that’s hot, man. and that hedge is great for showing off new boards (made for some nice shots of keith’s singlefin). much love to you and jami…
~ S.J.
That was an adventure (for me at least.) Looks great.
By the way, and I know it may not be the metric, or maybe it is, I wouldn’t know, but when you’re running (so to speak) what is your stroke rate, say in relatively calm water.
Also if you inclined to answer another question(s), when you paddle, how important is the change in waterline with a down stroke? If it is important, how did you design for it?
Either way, thanks for sharing that.
kc
Added question:
Can you estimate, or do you know the (center) draft (water-line) of the board, with and without you on it?
Very impressive!
If you plan to strip it down this winter anyway, it might be worth modifying the knee wells too if you still don’t like their position by then.
By the way, and I know it may not be the metric, or maybe it is, I wouldn’t know, but when you’re running (so to speak) what is your stroke rate, say in relatively calm water.
Thats a tough one. Ive got a very quick cadence while paddling prone (maybe 60 strokes per arm per minute) But it slows down while knee paddling (around 40-45 per minute). I will usually alternate between knee and prone and just count to 50 strokes in calm water. Upwind finds me spending the majority of the time prone and downwind/downswell I mainly knee paddle for a better line view and being able to link bumps.
Also if you inclined to answer another question(s), when you paddle, how important is the change in waterline with a down stroke? If it is important, how did you design for it?
Im not quite sure what this is asking, bu t I know I bury the bow when riding down swell alot, but thats to pull the nose down to help with "railroading " bumps. I want the bow as close to the water as possible, but when beating into swell/wind I let the bow ride a little higher.
I didnt know what I was doing when I made these, so Im not sure I could design for the waterline.
Can you estimate, or do you know the (center) draft (water-line) of the board, with and without you on it?
It draws maybe .75-1 inch unloaded, but draws more like 4 with me on it
If you plan to strip it down this winter anyway, it might be worth modifying the knee wells too if you still don’t like their position by then.
I dont think I will be taking off any glass, just taking it down to the weave to attempt a better fillcoat/glosscoat/paintjob. The knee weels are alot better for someone about 30 pounds lighter, but then you need gorilla armsto big deep enough…
I was wondering about resonance effects, and whether or not they are a factor in design.
(And by the way, I’m completely new to paddleboard science, so I’m just trying to sort out what’s important.)
A large ship it will tend to bob in the water with a natural frequency, which is a function of the square root of its draft, see diagram. The equation is a simplification but it’s not a bad starting point for finding the natural frequency of a paddleboard.
If your natural paddling frequency tended to be sufficiently close to the natural frequency of the paddleboard it might work against you, or for you – it would depend. For example if you always find yourself in a down-stroke when the board is rising. There would seem to be a number of design choices to counteract the effect, size of craft would be one, hull design, or even using something like a center positioned star fin to dampen the motion.
The quick and dirty calculation though would indicate that you’ve got a ways to go before you hit resonance (when the period of the driving force is equal to the natural frequency of the craft), but that doesn’t mean there couldn’t be problems even now. I suspect if there are any you’ll soon discover them.
That was a curious comment about wind chop and railroading. Very crudely, a wind chop producing a average period wave of something around 1 sec would produce wavelengths around 4 foot (peak to peak.) Is this sort of the maximum length of the kind of railroading you are talking about? (There’s more to factor in here like relative motion.) My question would be, is it generally considered better to land rather than penetrate the next wave? Or is what is generally done a possible compromise. (I guess it depends on how the paddleboard will be used – general vs competition.)
This may all sound odd, but I’m just trying to sort out frequency effects, of which being bounced around from chop is one component, as is also having a length which is compatible to average wavelength or multiples of, of the average chop (which might be encountered.)
Flat hulls, steep bows, low rocker, cut off sterns… its all kind of wild.
Forgive me. Right now you are my only contact into ‘Paddle World.’
Thanks for answering my questions.
… and again, nice board.
kc
this is all very intriguing. Im not the smartest guy in the world, nor know awhole lot about paddleboard design, so it took me a few rereadings to start to wrap my head around it…
I will have to sit and ponder it a bit and get back to you.
In regards to railroading short period(interval) chop, its more the overall help that you get then the actual riding of the wave (thats more open ocean swell riding).
Linking up short period swell is more like someone pushing you while youre already running. It just takes a bit of the pressure off.
If Im paddling and average of 3.5 knots downwind/swell with the wind blowing8-12 knots and swells running 4-5 knots, all Im getting is a bit of an ease of in pulling through the water tension. The wind is pushing you as is swell, so really you’ll be paddling 4-4.5 knots with bursts of speed from a quick push up to 5 knots.
This is all guesswork, but Im very intrested by the frequency of craft and this “down stroke”. What is that pertaining to? The start of a paddlestroke where youre actually lifting the craft for a sec, or the actual pull back stroke.
Im planning out some race designed SUP paddleboards for the races around socal are putting together divisions and this is something I would like to factor in. Mainly, because Im lazy and dont like working harder than I have to.
Any chance of re-linking your photos? I think I found my project for this year… 
I’d like to second that request to relink the photos please.
I’d love to go back through and re link everything, but alas… Im lazy.
Here’s where you can find the folder on photobucket…
gracias
ACheateaux, any chance you still have the .brd files for your board. I am looking to make a couple myself and I am looking for a starting point.