2# eps/epoxy ding repair Q's

Hi all - Sorry to sound so naive, but coming up fixing hundreds of pu/pe dings was one thing, and the switch over to making boards out of eps/epoxy has been something else, but my problem seems to be:

I think I’ve let the ding dry out - after stripping away lose glass, taking out loose/gouged/cut foam - letting the board set indoors for a couple days, but when I go to feather the edges, and I may or may not have waited for the “drying time” before putting in some epoxy-glass bead filler, I occasionally get water beading up from???

So - what do you guys, who do this kind of thing, do to make sure your dings are dry? To be sure, I’d like to learn some techniques that will speed up the process.

Thanks in advance -

If you haven’t got a moisture content metre (expensive) tape cling film over the ding and leave in the sun, if condensation foams on the inside of the film then the foam is still wet.

Eps and suck water deep in to board, you need to open them up to allow the water to evaporate and enven then they can take months to dry out proppery, with the worst cases you will need to pump the water out.

Board Lady says, “very difficult to dry out eps even with vacuum”.

try putting it next to a dehumidifier

“Pinchy way…” as they say in local spanish… Not the best news…

On a positive note. I recon one reason I don’t have to do dozens of ding repairs like the “old” days, is, I’m sure many of the scratches on my epoxy boards would have been dings on my old pu/pe boards. In part because I’ve used mostly 2x4oz w/1/4 length tail patch bottom, and @ 2/3 length, from tail, deck patch. I’ve also started doing a “V” shaped piece of glass for the nose rails - about 18" from nose back - just for that extra layer of strength.

Any other thoughts???

Given the “water proof” nature of xps, it seems the bubles are less of a thought, as you could just grind 'em off and recover easy enough… Didn’t have any major dings on the two xps I made… but the bubles could be a drag… But to not have to worry about any water intrusion… sounds good…

Anyone ever try putting that stuff from those packets that are there to absorb moisture? Seems like you could open up a packet, dump it in th ding, let set for a day or so, then vacume it out…

let the board position ding down for a few days, if not a week. I sometimes take clear packing tape cover the ding, poke a hole in the tape and attach my vac pump to the ding tape. Let that pump over night.

Yes i make sure my dings are bone dry before messing with them, saves all sorts of headaches later on. Like my daddy said “what’s time to a hog…what’s the rush to get the board done” Don’t tell me that’s your only surfboard?

A vacuum pump then a dehumidifier like was mentioned would be good, but most people don’t have them. The way I’ve always done them is to put the ding at the lowest point and let drip dry, them turn it up to be the highest point and put a small fan blowing across the ding at medium speed. You will be surprised how well the fan can wick moisture out. Works great for wetsuits too.

Open them up like Woody advised, and stick a piece of paper towel into the hole to wick out the water. Change it often. Do not be tempted to use compressed air and blow in that hole, or you’ll be fixing a delam as well. Check for dryness by putting a hairdryer on the area and seeing if any moisture appears.

Idiot boy, me, froze up my fridge vacuum pump by sucking on a wet ding area without a trap in the line, caution.

All good advice here. Here’s my two cents.

Keep water out by getting out of the surf when you get a ding. Suck as much as you can out as soon as

you can. Open up the area as soon as you can. PeteC’s paper towel/wicking trick is the same technique

I advise. Rising temps will help keep gas pressure in the foam working for you. Falling temps are going

pull water farther into the core. Normal temperature cautions/limits for EPS apply.

You probably can’t get every molecule of H2O out of the foam, but that’s true on PU also. Also, don’t over-

complicate the repair on small dings, most of the time Marine-Tex or the two-part epoxy putties are the

best fillers, both are designed to seal off water (Marine-Tex in boats, the two-parts in pipes).

Thanks for all the input you guys… I’ll try the paper towels next time… Anyone ever tried my idea of the moisture absorbent powder??? I’ve done most all of the above, this last ding that sent me here was a slam on the rocks coming in… in the water for seconds>minute, and I opened, set in warm shed for a couple days, then puttied, and after I sanded down, gettin’ ready to cut some cloth… here comes a drip of water…

Not my only board, but one of my best, so I miss it… Should be dry by now… I hope… Ha! Another good reason to make another one, and another one, and another one, and another one, and another one, and another one, and another one, and another , and antoehre.f.ss.s… ah aha!

Taylor, I haven’t personally used dessicants (moisture absorbing powders), but I know of people that have.

I just wouldn’t advise it to the masses because there’s things that could contaminate the ding. Paper towels

are nice and safe.

Good thought Mike - Supposedly they are safe to eat, you’re just not suppose to… I’ll try the paper first, next time.