1.) When doing a hotcoat, I should tape off at the mid-rail when doing both sides, correct? This will allow a “seam” that will be fairly easy to scrape/sand off from what I understand…
2.) After a hotcoat has completely kicked and cured, should I be able to feel ANY of the weave anywhere? On my test “board”, after the hotcoat was totally dry, the bottom of the board was nice and smooth (with the exception of a few “zits”), and the top was the same, but on the laps that wrap from the bottom onto the deck, I can still see and feel the weave a little. Maybe I didn’t use enough hotcoat resin around thos areas…?
Yeah, the seam is usually just surfformed down in two passes.
And yeah, the flat spots get a good puddle of resin, while the sloped rails always get less, resulting in less coverage, and some weave showthru’s. That’s why most boards have between two to 3 layers of glass right there, on the slope.
Oh, maybe I’m a troll, but I lost my previous password and swaylocks couldn’t find it.
…put aerosil in your hot coat, put the rigth amount of catalyst and do cross strokes too (with the brush)…you should put the same resin quantity in all passes…and you don´t have those problems…
reverb- When I did my test hotcoat, I did heavy strokes leghtwise down the board from the middle out to the rails, then cross strokes perpendicular to the stringer from the middle out to the rails, then I did lenghtwise strokes with a real light touch…If I remember right, that’s the sequence they said to do in Glassing101. Should I just add a little extra hotcoat resin to the rail areas after all that brushing? Thanks.
Why the cabosil? Never heard nor tried this… though I don’t think I’ve ever really had problems with my hotcoat. Doesn’t this affect the clairity of the coat?
Hmmm.well here is Hotcoating 102.I don’t lay claim to it.Its just what about every factory on the planet is doing.Bear with me if you can…1)Add wax sol to the resin and catylize it.2) Pour it on to the board and just get it on there pretty thick.Cross stroke it twice and make one last pass down the length of the board.At this point the rails are not taped,you want to paint up and under the lap on the bottom so you are getting a coat on the lap mess.3)Let it dry and flip the board.Sand the laps down and get the big bumps runs etc. down smooth.When you do this you will see weave but no worry.4)Now we tape the rails and hotcoat the bottom,the weave will turn clear.Let it gell (hopefully in ten minutes or so) and pull the tape.By doing the paint under thing and sanding the bottom you should be able to sand the board without exposing any weave so you have a nice sanded finish.If you elect to gloss the board it will make it that much easier when you polish.I have never heard of putting cabosil in hotcoat resin but if it works for some folks I say fine.Thanks to Kokua and Tom Sterne for input on this subject.
So basically you are doin’ the bastin’ thang fo’ the bottom laps when you are hotcoating the deck? I see how I can eliminate some more time by doin it this way. I have been bastin’ and letin’ it set as one step then hot coating. What you describe is the same baste just using the deck hot coat free brushed under. Did I read that correctly? Any problems with the bottom hot coat and spots that didn’t get sanded well.(wax) I guess a good ol’ swipe with some "tone will do the trick.
Great tip…Thanks guys (tre hombres) as usual. Good to be back.
I use a piece of Red Scotchbrite to knock the gloss of any shiny spots.Be careful with acetone.If you have a tint bottom it may(or may not) smear the color.Do you know the “sticky side up” trick with masking tape?I’ll exhale on it anyway.Hot coated and glossed boards will slide off your racks pretty easily…so just apply some tape with the tacky side up.Holds the board nice and tight.Just remember what you are doing because if you forget and go to glass an airbrushed board the tape will pull the color off.I think we could do a whole thread on just masking tape alone…maybe even an article.Then there is “Masking Tape Golf”…see if you can figure that one out.
Mr cleanlines…, i don´t try to put this issue on discussion again…, in fact i and many peoples do the hot coat process in the same way, but with aerosil (cabosil) in the resin. the fact is that some hot coat resins just contains a minimun amount of this or other “charge”…that´s it