Cabosil with fin boxes? If an EPS blank comes with a perfect deck and bottom, still have to sand top layer off, or just go an epoxy lam?
With proboxes, we’re using the oversize 5/8 bearing with a little chopped glass and a little fumed silica. Less resin, less heat with the bigger bearing on the router bit to eliminate any eps melting problems due to exotherm.
Some guys are using hot glue on under glass systems like futures etc, I did a few quite a while ago like that and no problems and have heard of no problems with many boards. Very quick and when I did screw up a box placement a bunch of foam came out with the box when I pulled it. The glass on top is the strength so I think it’s plenty strong. Hope it helps.
The eps blank is already perfect and ready to glass? No need to shape it? Cool! Glass it if you don’t mind the extra weight from resin soak in, unless its the tight beaded stuff like marko or the stuff fused in smaller blocks where theres not much worry about soak in.
220grit,
We use FCS and Resin research (make sure you use the RR slow hardner). We also attach small wet sponges under the board on the deck over the fin plugs. (that will keep the heat way down.)
I would alway’s sand and seal. Even tight bead can still drain on ya if not sealed.
Paul
there’s some epoxy gel/glue CMP uses that doesn’t get hot.
he uses it to seal the whole and set the box and then the regular resin with filler to fill the voids.
prevents soaking and overheating
that’s while redx works better probably why points blanks started with them.
The glue/gel is found at hobby stores and model airplane sites…
Surflight uses FCS and RR resin to solve the problem
JTroy said that ProBoxHawaii has a new bit to resolve the problem by reducing the gap so the fit’s tighter
I always figured that if the vacuum hold downs will keep the blank down then theres no need to seal it if the blank is perfect.
But an ounce of prevention is probably better… 
of course, when using hot glue, do NOT apply it right on the foam - it will melt it. Apply around the bottom of the box itself, let get tacky, and then set the box.
Cabosil with fin boxes? If an EPS blank comes with a perfect deck and bottom, still have to sand top layer off, or just go an epoxy lam?
With proboxes, we’re using the oversize 5/8 bearing with a little chopped glass and a little fumed silica. Less resin, less heat with the bigger bearing on the router bit to eliminate any eps melting problems due to exotherm.
Some guys are using hot glue on under glass systems like futures etc, I did a few quite a while ago like that and no problems and have heard of no problems with many boards. Very quick and when I did screw up a box placement a bunch of foam came out with the box when I pulled it. The glass on top is the strength so I think it’s plenty strong. Hope it helps.
The eps blank is already perfect and ready to glass? No need to shape it? Cool! Glass it if you don’t mind the extra weight from resin soak in, unless its the tight beaded stuff like marko or the stuff fused in smaller blocks where theres not much worry about soak in.
220grit,
We use FCS and Resin research (make sure you use the RR slow hardner). We also attach small wet sponges under the board on the deck over the fin plugs. (that will keep the heat way down.)
I would alway’s sand and seal. Even tight bead can still drain on ya if not sealed.
Paul
there’s some epoxy gel/glue CMP uses that doesn’t get hot.
he uses it to seal the whole and set the box and then the regular resin with filler to fill the voids.
prevents soaking and overheating
that’s while redx works better probably why points blanks started with them.
The glue/gel is found at hobby stores and model airplane sites…
Surflight uses FCS and RR resin to solve the problem
JTroy said that ProBoxHawaii has a new bit to resolve the problem by reducing the gap so the fit’s tighter
I always figured that if the vacuum hold downs will keep the blank down then theres no need to seal it if the blank is perfect.
But an ounce of prevention is probably better…
of course, when using hot glue, do NOT apply it right on the foam - it will melt it. Apply around the bottom of the box itself, let get tacky, and then set the box.