2nd attempt at compsand

General Discussion
1

lost all the text

sigh

again

2nd attempt at compsanding a nice board

surfer is 83kg, foot size 43

he is an avid longboarder, lived in south africa and south america

he want a board that performs well in The Netherlands, but also in France

something not too light, with all the wind in our country some momentum was wished for

small board, with nose ride ability

surf beach breaks mainly, either super fast breaking smaller (1-3foot) hollower waves, or slowly breaking mushy bigger waves (3-6 foot)

He liked outline of Wombat

So, thanks Paul Hutchinson (ps nowhere info on the rails of a Wombat)

Thanks Seabse, Atua Cores, Compsand.com, polyservice and many others

we decided on 6.4 * 20 *2.3

round boxy rails up front, decreasing in volume towards tail

6oz/2mm/6oz on both sides with 16mm rails, no extra patches nowhere

no hard edges, for we want nose rides with this baby (or try nose rides)

Concave in in nose (2mm) and 1.5 foot back, going into a very slight belly Vee, then going FLAT

i really cant tell the radius but it is small on those 55/45 rails

First step was to glue planks together

I found that the second cheapes tape worked GREAT

what i found real handy was to tape up, then fold back over tape and staple all planks, then apply glue, lay flat, add something flat and weight

good method

and a clean result

i did find a negative

using 5 min epoxy glue

it is the stuff that you need to mix

absolutely horrible, it hardens fast, is difficult to apply

wood glue can be used, just make sure: that you NEVER need to sand it, it is stronger than the wood itself, so upon sanding i tore out lots of wood with the still rubbery flexible wood glue

ill continue page 2

2

after the skins were glued

time to do the rails

i had glued the balsa, so i lay down one full part on the rails (square rails)

you can see the rail line in the pic

mistake=use red and green marker

they showed up upon sanding, so i needed to pinline over them to hide this horrible mistake

just use a pencil, crayon, Carbon stuff

NEXT STEP is to add rails to board

on this table i layed down the rails with right side up

used expanding urethane glue on the first 2 strips, just felt good

then wood glue for the rest, and lots of it, for balsa soaks up glue, on my first compsand, lots of rails let go…

BTW this pic is of me pencilling the rail line onto the balsa

i added the rails the simple way,

just stick all glued up rails on rail

turn board around into off cut

do same on other side

add offcut

add wood onto offcut all along lenght of off cut

use roof binders to hold together

now you have rails on, but beware, i only added 8of the 16mm, i want the balsa to have a firm grip of the rails, no floating skins here.

next step is shaping

the most difficult

i signed all distances for the 8mm to go still

i then procede to shape

i have a small planer now, that is ok for rail bands

see how i marked my bevels/rail bands

on the right side until red line

on left side you can still see that line

too much to explain but i hope you get the point

you can see how low i went, too low, correction time, oh my god… so many time consuming mistakes

i decided to reinforce nose with corecell, erasing my mistake

in the voids i added corecell

you can see bubble wrap on the bottom

i added more cut to shape bubble wrap to create a concave in the nose

it worked semi ok

next time cardboard or foam

ps failed to vacuum the rails on, for i did not do a leak test… DO A LEAK TEST FIRST

i had to strap the rail to board, annoying…

time for decks

decks were cut to the outline with the 8mm rails on

you put the two skins on the board, tape them so they wont move when you put them in bag

make sure that the skins are really cut to size, or else when the resin hardens your bag will be perforated, pulling vaccy over the hard resin

was that aussie influence?

anyway

out the bag she comes

at the tail, see how the corecell reinforcement shows through

btw, thereinforcements

i almost forgot

more

and more

i added this fleece in between the corecell and the deck skin, for good adhesion. it tends to soak up resin, expand a bit, i find it good,

the holes in the board

i hate reinforcements

too much work

and in this case

too much trouble

anyway

think before you act

and always use a condom

next page i think

3

so

fins reinforcements are in

deck and bottom skins are on (including glass and epoxy, sorry i forgot)

i used the conversion program, handier than google, i posted it on compsand,com

i now add the remaining 8mm of rails to board

i have no pics

but it is simple

same as first 8mm

just strap them on

or vac them on, i was just lazy

now you final shape the rails

you can still sand some of the first 8mm off, as long as your deck stays attached to thefirst 8mm of the rails

now the compsand is ready for glassing.

as mentioned i used resin research

i lay glass on cut to size, very precisly, no tape involved.

i do remove any loose strains of glass, so you wont have threads hanging down

weigh proper amount of resin

mix slowly, add no bubbles

poor resin on board

divide it over the surface

let it soak for 2 minutes

if you count seconds 2 minutes is long, but just wait

now start in middle

with your firm plastic squeegee, pull resin off the flat towards rails

grab the glass hanging down and pull it horizontal

put epoxy onto glass, soak that glass, fill her up!

now go towards nose

or tail

whatever point East

do other rail

now you let the rails hang and start working the top side,

from middle towards ends

press firmly

remove excess resin

now remove last bits of resin from middle to rails, perpendicular to length of board

wet out completely

Tuck and press hard

have good lightning so you see the bubbles

you see no bubbles?

you are good

let it cure, grab a beer

p.s. if you wish you can do a cherry coat when lam is still takcy

i did not, for i wanted a wet into wet lamination of the glass

you can still do the top or bottom side with your cherry coat, just one side, i used plastic on wet epoxy, but it was such a disaster grinding the plastic deformations off…

xxx

4

both sides glassed

add fins

best to have a neutral back ground and a waterpas?? to level your work…

sanding the stuff

and tail blox

i added tail blox to the cherry coated board

i used a block plane

i scraped glass off

i suck

next time i will try and grind it.

once tail blox are on

proceed to sanding real flat, have a perfect finish, use a HARD pad

once all is well

proceed to gloss coat

sand gloss coat and polish it

add a goretex vent and tape off your pinlines

oh yeah i used finess pintriping tape

works ok!

i am not good, but find it to work well

5

good work wouter

this is how you do it guys

one thing the flange on the inserts is not necessary

just inlay a rectangle or small circles

oh yeah if your gluing sheets together

use an aliphatic glue like elmers

its crystaline and will sand

6

result

i see only the mistakes

new owner is pretty happy though

he sees some mistakes

but accepts them

thank you

+

  • next time just 1 layer of glass on nose and tail blox, now it is too white

  • next time hopefully less than 6 weeks on and off…

  • next time a flexible compsand that springs back

  • next time , always next time

i hope to have helped somebody with some information on this thread

7

Wow! I’m impressed. Gonna start my 4th soon. Hope it looks as nice as yours.

Karl