I was thinking I should go purchase a few Clark 2nd quality blanks to work on my planing techniques. What kinda mistakes and damage can I expect to see in a 2nd? thanks JR
I was thinking I should go purchase a few Clark 2nd quality blanks to work > on my planing techniques. What kinda mistakes and damage can I expect to > see in a 2nd? thanks JR …The blank can have one or more of the following; inconsistances in foam density(cellular),air pockets,displaced stringer,bad wood,no stringer,twistys,scars,minor gouges,old or dicolored,bad glue-up(rare).IF IT HAS ALOT OF MAJOR PROBLEMS:it’s a reject…which would also be good for test cutting.Herb
I was thinking I should go purchase a few Clark 2nd quality blanks to work > on my planing techniques. What kinda mistakes and damage can I expect to > see in a 2nd? thanks JR I understand that Clark 2nd foam is not much cheaper (if this is your intent). Also consider if you shape a clean board, you want good foam…
I was thinking I should go purchase a few Clark 2nd quality blanks to work > on my planing techniques. What kinda mistakes and damage can I expect to > see in a 2nd? thanks JR Second’s should be given away…
I was thinking I should go purchase a few Clark 2nd quality blanks to work > on my planing techniques. What kinda mistakes and damage can I expect to > see in a 2nd? thanks JR JR, I use as many 2nds as I can get my hands on. There is rarely a board that the puka can’t be shaped out. In the day of colored lams, fabric inlays there is no reason to use a first and cover it with color. I did get a 9’4"B recently with too deep of a hole near the rail that couldn’t be shaped out. I had rails from putting Balsa rails on a blank for Steve Seebold, so I cut them off and reglued with a black glue line, replacing the one rail. My new winter long board gun is made entirely from foam that I cut out of other blanks to put in wide stringers. It has 2- 5 1/2" pieces with a 5/16" redwood in the center, bordered with 3/8" balsa, followed by 3" foams with 1/8" redwoods, 3" foams with 1/16 " balsas and the final rail piece. Volan lam and a laminated glass tailblock. It is work like this that earned me the “Genius” nickname. http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com
Jim: Post a pic of it! I want to see it. Saw a couple of your boards in O’side. several weeks ago in the shop on Hill St. He had 2 nice eggs and a VERY nice blue lam longboard that I eyed for 20 min. or so. Exceptional craftsmanship. Tom Sterne
I saw a resin/glass tailblock on an August model the other day and would like to do that. Would you mind sharing how that is done? JR
I saw a resin/glass tailblock on an August model the other day and would > like to do that. Would you mind sharing how that is done? JR JR, I usually make them about 3/4"-7/8" wide. I make up thin sheets from scrap, using the bitchin fluro colors and deco strange ones. Then I dumpster dive the Fins Unlimited trash for the pieces of dicarded fin sheet. I resaw the scrap into strips long enough on my band saw. I take the thin strips and sandwich them between the wider pieces and adherer them together with colored resin and 2 strips of scrap cloth on each section. The added cloth makes little accent lines that seperate the rest of the fiberglass strips. Now the itchy part is the foiling of the tail block. When I cut off the foam part, I butt the tailblock against the board and draw its profile. I take it back to the bandsaw and saw it as close as possible before 5 minute epoxying it to the board. I tape the foam off with a liberal shield of masking tape to ensure I don’t sand into the foam and sand away and away and away til it’s flush with the tape. It is sanding block for the final tune up. As my Dad used to tell me “the devil hates a coward”, now it’s your turn, go for it! http://www.JimtheGenius@aol.com