Howdy,
Currently I’m shaping a 3 stringer 9,4 longboard but shaping the rails is a real pain in the ass. I’ve already did some runs with the electric planer, but the beast is taking out large chunks out of it. Any pointers?
Howdy,
Currently I’m shaping a 3 stringer 9,4 longboard but shaping the rails is a real pain in the ass. I’ve already did some runs with the electric planer, but the beast is taking out large chunks out of it. Any pointers?
howzit
I’d recommend to use a spokesshave and run it down the curve trying not to work against the grain.
Grab your spokesshave with your thumb and your indexfinger and use the rest of your fingers to maneuver your spokesshave by pulling or pushing on the board as you run along the stringer.
I hope that doesnt sound more complicated as its supposed to sound
good luck
geef
The little 3" long mini planer…
When you power plane multi stringers, you can set deep for initial mowing of foam, but within say 1/4", you gotta set to minimum depth because the wood is flying around gouging the foam.
Thanks people, hope it helps.
LeeDD, I’ve not tried it jet but: when using the small planer on the rail, in angular position, it will probably come to an erupt stop when the planer meets the stringer at the nose or tail. U suggest I should just keep plowing? If yes, how can I smooth things out??? Since wood is harder than foam, I’d might encounter some bump problems using shapinggauze. Enlighten me. Cheers!
For the edges be sure to bring out your arsenal of wood files.
Hey there Mook,
One thing that should have been stressed with the use of a mini-hand plane is to MAKE sure that it is sharp, just not out of the package, but HONE the blade with a stone or a diamond plate, you would not believe the difference that a honed blade will make. A mini-plane is all I use when shaping multi- stringers…
Remember…being sharp is the key…!!!
Good luck bro,
surrfdaddy
Try using a mini roto tool (Dremel, etc.) and small grinder head to take down the stringer about 1/16" below the foam, and then shape rails as usual. takes some practice, but works good.
use the power planer on a shallow cut and follow the rail line, razor planes work best when dealing with smooth cuts. sharpness is the key for smooth cuts. use masking tape to cover up the foam when u need to sand it flush with the foam. the tape protects the foam from being sanded down more,