I am getting ready to shape my first triple stringer board. I can already see problems ahead. How do you shape the outside stringers around the rail area? Surform, block planer, sandpaper?. maybe all of the above. anyone ever try using a dremel tool. Any advice sure would be grateful.
I am getting ready to shape my first triple stringer board. I can already > see problems ahead. How do you shape the outside stringers around the rail > area? Surform, block planer, sandpaper?. maybe all of the above. anyone > ever try using a dremel tool. Any advice sure would be grateful. \ …It’s at the ends that suck,keep them even in the outline and use a micro spoke shave.You can tape off the foam on the sides of the stringer to keep you from taking more foam.Herb
…It’s at the ends that suck,keep them even in the outline and use a > micro spoke shave.You can tape off the foam on the sides of the stringer > to keep you from taking more foam.Herb There are pluses and minuses to shaping a triple stringer (offsets). The good thing is that they can help as a guide so that your shape is symmetrical from stringer to rail (the offsets act as smaller points of measurement). In kind of the same way at the nose and tail you can see if your board is lopsided by making sure that one stringer isn’t longer than the other. The minus is that you have a lot more wood to plane with the block. At the ends of the board you will want to check yourself into an insane asylum when you try to make them mimic the curve you’ve cut into the rail. I’ve used rasps, sand paper, and small bull-nose block planes to make them conform. I’ve heard of shapers leaving the offsets sticking out of the rail (minimally) and having the glasser fix when they’re sanding the board. Enjoy!
How about using 1/2" balsa stringers ? The wood is really soft and should easily be sanded along with the foam. The loss in strength would be compensated by thicker stringers (same weight since it’s lighter). Pierre
How about using 1/2" balsa stringers ? The wood is really soft and > should easily be sanded along with the foam. The loss in strength would be > compensated by thicker stringers (same weight since it’s lighter).>>> Pierre Balsa offsets are one of the hardest stringers to finish off. The softness of the wood makes it resistant to the block plane getting a bite in it. After successfully planing, it often springs back out again. Keep tabs on the stringers at all times and as was mentioned before, you can tape around the edges and sand only the stringer at the end. Don’t rely on the glass shop to correct the problem, it may come out very smooth, but will have NO glass around it.
I really appreciate all the input.Sounds like a matter of just jumping in and doing it. Sounds like taping off the stringer will be my first approach. Thanks
I really appreciate all the input.Sounds like a matter of just jumping in > and doing it. Sounds like taping off the stringer will be my first > approach. Thanks As a post script…triples are alot like trying to make the legs on a chair even buy cutting the one that SEEMS to too long. It never seems to set just right. Jim is right about the soft woods. I’ve notice (only in the very few boards I’ve done like this and in no way liken myself to Mr. Phillips in skill or experience) that the stringer may even break out in chunks especially if your tools are’nt sharp. Recognize the point at which you sense you are starting to overwork the board and walk away. The more you do the better you get! JC