I have found that if you brush a horsehair counter brush over the glass the static electricity holds the glass down as good as Super77 and makes your glass wrinkle free. Weird huh, being messy has taught me many things.
I think this one is worth repeating because its well written, and meaningful; furthermore his insights take it to the next level. Still for some this is a sticky subject.
Is there a way to filter out the glue but still get the VOC’s and the cheap high that Resinhead alludes to?
YES!!
wear a N95 mask only, that way it will knock down the heavy particticulate.......But not the VOC.
That's the way for the cheap high.
Sounds interestiong, lavarat…
Here’s what I do, and I’ve never really thought about it until reading this thread…
Due to the fact thay my boards are built with more sandwich struture, I seal all the foam (to keep weight from resin absorption down) with the typical mixture of micro balloons, epoxy, and most often a small amout of 1/32" milled fiberglass…
Now , Instead of letting this dry and sanding it down, I wait just long enough until the seal coat is bearly tacky , and I mean bearly… If you’re using RR. KK this is a fairly short time, during which , you gather your tools ,weigh epoxy resin (lol) and get your bagging supplies at the ready…
I can now roll out the glass and smooth it down to the sealed core, sometimes even using light swipes with a soft squeege…
The glass can be easily lifted without damage if needed, but wouldn’t fall off if you were to turn the board upside down
Bingo… 1. No stinky spray 77 (which can cause brownish discoloration, btw, as it’s basicly spray on contact cement)
2. A sealed blank on which the sealer is still capable of chemically bonding with the laminate resin…
3. Securely laid out glass with no wrinkles… A real plus when vacuum bagging outer lams…
Been doing it this way out of habit for years so I’ve never thought about it in regards to Spray 77 until now…
This method is useless when I wet out the cloth on a seperate wet out table then apply… Which is sometimes the case…
Thanks Kiterider. That’s what this place is about- sharing info. That is such a good tip. Just promise me once again that you can lift and adjust the glass once it’s down. I’m just having visions of glass unraveling…
Hey llilibel…
No worries. Just touch it with your gloved hands an test for dryness … The main reason I do this is because I want a chemical bond between the semi dry seal coat and the glass lam… The glass holding power of the semi cured resin is just a bonus… Just be carefull when you lay out the glass…
I’d be more worried trying to smoothly lay out glass on the stickier 77 spray…
The sealer coat isn’t wet anymore just rubberlike for lack of a better description… You’ll know… Apply the cloth with the intention of not moving it and you’re safer yet…
Why do you need it stuck so well anyhow?? If you’re going into channels and weird shapes I’m sure Spray 77 would be an advantage… But for regular boards I don’t see the need…
GR, you are messing with me.
KR, great tip. I was only using 77 under veneers so the color wasn’t an issue. But I like your method. I have a few non-veneers to build now and will try that.
Llilibel you can use kiterider method close eyes, this is the main method to laminate on porous materials for more than 30 years LOL. All “old school” windsurf shaper used it !
And if you want an other “secret sauce” (that’s how Dead shaper called it i think) small secret, add cab-o-sil to the mix, it’s improve takiness and you don’t have to wait between seal and lam.
Sorry for my frenglish
3m’s Super 77 is tackier than polyester plad button ups, bermuda’s, and black socks. Hush lil’puppies
will do cloth to eps and cork and balsa. stronger ones other suff. use it for templates to eps
get a full wrap with carbon tapes
i use it all the time
cork to eps and balsa to eps