Okay, I admit that I’m still buzzing from the adrenaline, so please excuse me and my Greenroom Font Color… BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!
The waves were mediocre, 4’ faces with lefts, rights, and a lot of closing sections. I tried to get out at mid-tide, but life kinda got in the way. However, I was able to run over to my shop, pick the board up, wax it at home, and walk down the beach access to my home break.
I caught 7 good waves (4 rights and 3 lefts).
The first right I took off on closed out quickly, but one good pump in my bottom turn and I flew right past the foam and connected the section. I immediately stood up in the waist high water, flipped the board over, and said, “I’m really onto something here!” I had the fins set all the way to the back of the box, and it was fine, but I think next time I’ll move them up a bit to make my turning radius looser.
I have to make this post short, because my wife is at home waiting for me to get there so we can all have dinner…
Anyhow, There was no learning curve with this board. I felt comfortable with it right away… very stable, very fast, very maneuverable. In fact, I noticed that once I got to a certain speed, I could put pressure on my front foot and it revealed a sweet spot that was like an accelerator… I mean that thing really zipped across the face. I tried to paddle in sideways to the waves to get in quickly and stay in the upper third of the wave face and avoid having to make a bottom turn, where at this particular beach break, I would lose that time that I needed to get going before the lip folded and closed out. This helped a great deal and I definitely saw the potential of this fin set-up.
My last wave was a left hand set wave that was about head high. I was going so fast that at one point the board nearly shot out from under my feet, and I had to lean forward and into the face more to stay with the board. I was flying. This was the wave where I realized that I am sure that I will be experimenting more with this setup. I had to call it a session after this wave… I wanted to end it on a good one!
I am completely stoked.
Until Report #2, stay tuned…