100 % waterproof would be awesome. I’m ready to be done with those browning PU dings, that we have all fixed a hundred times. I got a reef bite just yesterday, and cut my session short. The tide was too low, but it was the only time I had to go out.
Do you have to seal the blank? or just glass it as is? That blue is going to turn out real nice.
i have justordered stuff for my first board and btw yours looks awesome i was just wondering if you knew how to sand free laps? like do you jsut sand the resin so it blends with the foam or do you go through the fiber glass or just light sand?
Glass it without sealing, because it is closed cell (waterproof) it doesn’t suck resin either, but the bonding is not as strong, so it is more prone to delams.
I had 2kg of old epoxy (~4years old), the A-component was for 3/4 crystalized. The man of the epoxy shop told me to put it in a hot water tub. Allright after a testbatch I was ready to go!!!
I used the same pigment as board number two, just because I still had it and it doesn’t look bad.
The pigment is to prevent the yellowing a bit, I’ll pigment the hotcoat too. (It worked pretty good in board number two)
XPS shapes way better than EPS. I believe it resembles to shaping PU but I never shaped PU so I can’t really say. I only know PU from repairs, I would say that PU shapes a little bit better.
What I love the most about XPS is that it is 100% waterproof.
I went the woodglue+foamdust way. Did a test first and found out that the best method was a lot of dust and just a little glue to make it sticky. It works great!
Now it is practically invisible!
Before:
After:
For the freelaps. I just sand them 60 or 80 grid (by hand) until they are approximately flush, it doesn’t has to be perfect me.
Reason: I sanded through an airbubble that I had to fix, so in the mean time I thought why wouldn’t I glass over the plugs? Then it will be easier to do the PU finishing coat, and hopefully the plugs will be stronger.
The yellow stuff is some sort of modelling clay used in mold making, to prevent resin dripping in the plugs.
I won’t use the old leach-plug that I have laying around. I’ll do a leachloop.
I have no pictures of the deck, but that’s already done too.
Notice the change of backgroud, didn’t wanna do this in my garage because of the extremely intense xylene fumes (PU lacker)! Don’t use this shit without a respirator or you will be in places you’ve never been before :P. I did it in the garden house (or how is it called in english? The place where you store your lawnmower)
For the logo I did a test because I didn’t want the ink to bleed because of the xylene. I forgot to test it with acrylic. The ink is ok but the acrylic !?
No worries tho, I like the effect.
This PU lacker is great! No fish-eyes at all!!! It evens-out way better than epoxy.
I’ll do some light sanding tomorrow and the ride report will follow soon (I hope)
As regards turning the planer sideways to the stringer - it always seems to happen on the deck side, where the rocker curve is greatest. The larger base of the planer can't fit in that tight curve, so we turn it sideways, which would work great, if there was no stringer! I haven't cut my base plate yet, but my guess would be that's the reason its done.
"I did it in the garden house (or how is it called in english? The place where you store your lawnmower)" The tool shed, or garden tool shed.
BTW, a pin stripe around the logo would cover the bleed and look good.
Overall, great board, nice photos and explanation, looking forward for completed photos and ride report! Thanks for posting.
So here is the end result (sanded untill 400 grit):
Top
Quad
Logo
Thruster
Top
There will be some waves wednesday, I’ll try to ride this fella!
By the way: glassing over FCS plugs makes no sense, epoxy doesn’t bond to the plugs. When you cut out the holes, the glass delams over the whole plug untill it reaches the resin.
i was just wondering if you knew how to sand free laps? like do you jsut sand the resin so it blends with the foam or do you go through the fiber glass or just light sand?
