6'5" Teardrop Gloss Coat Diagnosis

General Discussion
1

Hey Everyone… I glossed the Teardrop today and it seems I never feel like I’ll have this completely wired. I wonder how long and how many boards I’ll shape before I feel completely confident that everything from the rough blank to the first surf will turn out perfect, whatever perfect may be (which I wonder if I’ll ever let myself feel that a board is perfect).

Here are the facts:

Gloss Coat

Sanded entire board to 150.

Wiped down with clean white paper towel and acetone.

Tape off rails, leash plug.

Acetone again, then sticky tape drag.

Strained 12 oz Silmar Gloss.

Add 10 cc Hardener, stir stir stir

76.9 degrees, 71% Humidity

Applied gloss with lickable clean clean clean Purdy brush.

Looks great, hull turns out perfect

Repeat above and the deck turns out great, then…

Two razor sharp 4" lines appear 5 minutes after final walk out.

Then the lines open up like a silk screen that has been cut with a razor.

Here are some photos…can anyone share some wisdom so I’m not always and forever holding my breath during the gloss session. Am I better off living with this flaw or is it not that risky to rough up a gloss coat and simply reapply?

Those weaves above are not exposed cloth, it’s a really weird pattern in the thin gloss that remained in this section.

Wow, also I’m seeing all kinds of parchment in the deck panel with the photo flash. Luckily none of that is visible in the sun (I hope).

Thanks guys.

2

To me it looks as though the resin was too thick around that area and pulled apart under it’s own weight.

3

Too thick. Try Kokua’s mix of gloss, styrene, surfacing agent; the ratios are in the archives. Mix the additives in well before you catalyze and use a paint stick. This is fool-proof if you brush it right, and can start sanding at 320 or higher. Do two parallel pours down the length, distribute it, then brush crosswise once then length-wise once. Pull the brush only, medium pressure cross-wise, light along the length. Keep removing excess from the brush as you work. Do this in a closed space with no drafts.

4

Thanks guys, I never thought about adding more styrene and surfacing agent.

How should I prep the board to re-gloss?

Here’s what I found in the archive’s for Kokua’s formula:

18 oz. Mixture Reichold Resin Gloss with a little Lam (not sure how much lam) to make it kick faster

10% Styrene

2-4% Surfacing Agent

Mix Mix Mix

Strain (or not?)

Add 18cc of hardener

Kokua how’s that sound? Am I on the right track here? and as mentioned above any suggestions on prepping the deck for a redo?

Thanks guys.

5

Howzit tommy, You don’t need to add the lam resin unless your gloss resin is old( that is a trick for kicking off old resin) . The lam resin can also work with sylmar gloss resin that takes longer to kick off. I don’t use acetone either unless there is a contaminated area. and even then I rewash the board with soap and water. Aloha.Kokua

6

…you dont need to redo that deck, only redo the flaw

and the polish/lustre will be ok

7

I’ve been using Kokua’s formula for several years with great success using Sylmar gloss, but a with bit more catalyst. I do all my glossing as the last thing before I quit for the day, so once the door is shut there’s no air movement. I can normally sand the next day unless it’s been very cold. I also soap and water wash my boards because you can’t wipe with acetone if you’ve got painted pinlines. When you rinse off the board, you can see any contamination as the water flows off. I blow off the excess water and dry with paper towels wearing clean gloves the whole time. I put clean towels on the stands to set the board on when washing and drying. I also find that soap/water washing removes some static charge and the board doesn’t attract dust while waiting for it to thoroughly air dry. On your current project, no need to redo it, just try and sand out the flaws with 220, regloss the areas if needed.