I am refurbishing a PU 70’s pintail, red on the deck; clear on the rails and bottom. I am thinking of sanding the very yellowed rails/bottom down to the hot coat/maybe lam and then applying a thick, opaque white hot coat and then glossing that. Anyone ever tried that? Will the opaque white be consistent? Any hints?
Given the red deck, I’d go with opaque yellow, instead of white. Throughout the early to mid sixties, the technique for color work, was to lay down the color work, and when set to the leathery stage, shoot a clear final gloss over it. Heavier, but that was a time when weight was not a negative. You can also let the color set hard, and sand with 220 grit wet/dry, and gloss that. The latter method, while more time consuming, will yield the best results. IMO.
good idea, love yellow, have more of the pigment than white. I haven’t worked with PU in ages, think a thick hot coat will cover?
Mix white with the yellow. It should cover without difficulty.
Chilly,
Why not paint the board instead of the thick hotcoat? Odds are your hot coat won’t be uniformly thick. And if the yellow is not 100% opaque, the color will be uneven. Paint it the color you want, then laminate over the paint with 4 oz., hot coat, sand, etc. Then your paint job will be protected from scratches by the glass job.
My experience has been, you really have to use a hell of a lot of pigment to cover anything with the hotcoat. You might think you’ve got it covered when you look in the bucket, but when you paint it on, you see right through it.
I’d paint it. It’s a sure cure.
ok, so if i airbrush it, can i use the same acrylic paints i use for epoxy? any tricks/trips to prep?
I use a good quality acrylic paint, thinned a bit with water to come out the gun easier. I usually do the painting right on the foam, then lam over it with epoxy, so there’s no concern about “reactivation” of the paint that will cause it to dissolve and run/bleed. But if you paint, then hotcoat, you might run into that problem. Maybe the trick would be to spray it with a clear acrylic to seal it, then hotcoat over that. Or… a very thin cheater coat, then the true hotcoat.
That’s all I got.
Ahhhhmmmmmm - if you are contemplating putting a lam over it anyways, why not do your color in that? Good old-fashioned 1970s cut lap, just like the original.
Uniform thickness and thus uniform color…or as close as you’re gonna get, probably not a helluva lot heavier than that very thick hotcoat you’ve been thinking about. I might bump it up to 6 oz, the additional weight won’t be terribly significant and the extra glass thickness will mean more pigmented resin thickness. Just to cover yourself, y’know?
hope that’s of use
doc…
doc, interesting though. I could sand it all the way to the lam and just put on a colored 2oz lam-but there are a few underlam decals (lightning bolt) i want to save. So I think I will give it the spray method and then clear hot and gloss. I will post when done. thanks again to all