8'3" E Ideas for Design?

General Discussion
1

Just bought the blank. Here’s the specs:

8’3" E Long

24-1/4" wide

3-1/4" thick

I’m taking LeeDD’s advice and am going for a 8’0" fun shape “travel small wave board.” Here’s his specs:

8’0" or so

23.5 wide

flatter rocker than normal

3.25 or so thick

flattish nose rocker

medium tail kick

tail width at 17-19"

wide point back like a McCoy Nugget

Any ideas for nose width? Any exact specs anywhere? I tried a search but came up nothing.

BB around? I’m using a thruster fin setup with Future boxes.

Also, have a new power planer - what minimum should I use to start skinning the blank? 1/32?? 1/64??

I don’t want to take off too much first go around and remember I want to keep the board fairly thick.

Thanks!!

2

??How tall and how much do you weigh again?

If the blank has been sitting, and the skin is hard, minimum cut is about 3/32 (deck), or else the planer just skim in and out, leaving voids and wobbles. I always used minimum skin cuts at 1/8th. For the bottom, you can set it to 1/16th, but my Skil doesn’t like that thin, and sometimes skips.

The board sounds intriguing, what with McCoy’s tail, and a nose width you like…for offshore winds, maybe only 14"…for some noseriding, maybe 17", for real nose riding, for sure 18-20".

Those wide tailed boards like to ride tail up, and can pearl or dig rails. Added tail rocker usually solves that, but takes away wave catching in small waves, and also snap and life…compromise…

It’s been said that such wide tails can be thick…I guess some V wouldn’t hurt.

Spreading your fin cluster gives you a wider sweetspot, and makes it easier in most waves. Tightening the cluster gives you more snap and quickness, but also tightens the sweetspot, making you HAVE to stand in the perfect spot.

Have fun with it, for sure it will work…and remember, big guy, big fins.

3

I have no idea what to do with that blank :wink:

4

I’m 6’0" 235 lbs. My 12-year old son is 5’6" 125 lbs. His friends are up tp 6’1" 185 lbs. We’re taking it, along with his 6’0" fish to Waikiki in a month from now. Kinda a mini-longboard. I’ll ride it, he’ll ride it, his friends will ride it. We have a 8’6" Yater Baby Spoon but it’s not thick enough to carry me.

Should the widest point be back or ahead of center?

Thanks,

BB

5

thanks…

Wide point back catches waves easier, snap turns quicker, and provides more glide in weaker waves…however, in strong waves, it has a tendency to want to stay flat, have too much drag to attain breakout boat speed, and the curvy tail rail doesn’t like to set.

In your case, Waikiki and smaller fun waves, you are on a good track!!

In ‘83, I had a roomate who learned to surf OK in less than 3 months, and he stood up on his first ever caught wave…at 5’10" and 275 lbs., riding to shore and stepping off actually pretty gracefully. He just went out and ordered a G&S 8’6" x 24"x 3.25 funboard before ever trying surfing. He quit surfing after 3 months, by which time he could do off the lips and sharp bottom turns, because a app. 8’ shark bit into his board, leaving the teeth marks, while he was sitting on it, bumping his inside forearm in the process and tearing his wetsuit. I was sitting 5’ to his left.

The board sits at some surf shop in San Francisco, I think the one at Balboa and 48th Ave.

Anyways…he sunk it sitting, and the water level with the board submerged was just about chest deep.

Oh oh… Russ Francis, former 49er tight end, at 250 lbs., used a 9’11" Takayama, and he sinks it pretty low. Ray Wershing, about 200lbs., actually CAN surf and used a sinky 8’6" funboard that was old and yellowed.

I’d say make the tail 18.5 wide, with a nice round, and keep the nose at least as wide.

6

I can’t make the tail 18.5 wide because 12-inches up from the stern it’s only 16.5. I’d have to chop off at least 6-inches to go that width. Nose it’s no problem. 12-inches from the tip is 19.5. What do you think?

Thanks

BB

7

I just got my 8’3"E today and cut out the rough shape. The tail is a rounded pin and i think i may have cut it too narrow at 15" the wide point is 5 1/4" forward at 23" and the nose is 18 1/2". I was trying to go for a cooperfish commet shape but it dosent quite look right. The total length is 7’6".

8

With a funshape like that, I prefer the wider noses. Noseriding is fun on smaller “longboards” or funshapes - and is definately the direction I would go with. Just a suggestion. Something like 19" or so would be good if you can get it.

9

Its the perfect blank for a true to form retro 6’O" S deck fish.

10

given the limitations on the tail width, I’d NOT increase any rocker at all, instead maybe flatten the tail kick out some

Go for the wide nose. It will look “unique” with wide point back, but the point of the board is for you and the fam to have FUN, not market it as a viable sellable product.

I don’t noseride, so I’d make the nose only 14 or so inches. However, you can make it as wide as you think you’d enjoy, and wider does catch small waves easier, paddle better, have more float…all good things for small wave fun!

11

We have the 8’6" Yater Baby Spoon for my son’s noseriding so this board will not be a noserider. So with wide point back, will the nose look too odd if it’s more narrow? Or will it just look like a pregnant gun??

BB