hey just got aku running and starting my next template what do you guys think of the outline and rocker. i want a classic long board that i can do a little nose riding on. what would you guy change if it were you and why
thanks for the input
antony
sorry posted board specs twice by mistake
antony
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The stock template in AKU is for a performance longboard. You will need to change almost everything to convert it into a noserider.
I’d widen the tail block and square off the tail, drop the tail rocker an inch and drop the nose rocker at least an inch (maybe 2") and use a heavier foil at both ends. I’d also change the rail profiles to 50/50, pinching them a bit, with a moderate roll in the nose. I think most shapers put concave in the bottom under the nose to provide lift when weighted - some people get really aggressive with that concave. Some people use an even flatter rocker in the tail and add the extra lift back in again behind the fin.
Like I said, you’re changing almost everything.
Lets see it on foam. Lines on paper are, well......just lines on paper.
I like to plan shape, but it seems too parallel in the mid section. I’d leave the tail rocker as is, but drop the nose rocker at least 1 1/2 to 2 inches, and make the tip of the nose a bit thicker.
lower the nose rocker , IMO nose concave does not help as much as you think.
a deep single the whole legnth of the board would work much better.
what gdaddy said. a classic longboard would have a lower noserocker with thickness carried out all the way to the tip. i like 50/50 rails there. i prefer a slight concave (3/16) to a flat bottom or to a deeper concave under the nose. concave should be at least 24" to 38" long and fade into the flat of the midsection. for noseriding, parallel rails are good. soft down rails offer a good compromise from the pulled knife rails of the late 60's and hard down rails of today. go at least an inch wider at the hip and carry the width out through tailblock. maybe 8" at the tailblock or more. roll the rails up in the tail section maybe 30/70, and start that rollup from maybe 18 - 24" from the tailblock. a big deep pivot fin with a wide base is always a help.
How did you arrive at 9'4"? The thing about "classic" longboards is that they should be length/volume proportionate to your weight if you really want the right feel. What you have now looks about right for 165 lbs. give or take. If you are heavier, then you need more length and thickness. I would also be inclined to increase the 14 1/2 tail dim, as well.
hey guys thanks for imput so far . i guess i should say that i am new to shaping i have shaped a few other boards but hey were copys of boards i all ready had. so when it comes to understanding what size, shape and rail design etc i am very new and am really geussing. i will jump back on AKU tonight and make some new changes and post them for you guys to see.
anyway if it helps in the design I weigh 93 kg (around 200 pounds ) am 5' 10 and have been surfing for 2 years, i am wanting a board that i can get better at nose riding on but that can still be my "daily driver" I surf mainly in waist to just over head high waves. i have a good soild take off and a clean bottom turn. but other that that i am still learning. i surf around 2 times sometime 3 times a week year round
hey if any off you guys have a pic of a board with measure on it that i can get ideas from please post
cheers antony
the board below is my "daily driver " right now
forgot to say its 9'2 - 22 1/2 - 3 with 5 1/2 nose and 2 1/2 tail
What you want to do now is to widen your range and start getting boards that specialize in specific conditions. One-quiver boards usually have too many compromises to excel at any one setup. Your current board will work great for chest high and bigger so now you need a noserider for the small stuff. You’re big enough to easily handle a longer board, I’d start you off with at least 9’6".
hey i think you right i had a try at doing a classic/noserider on AKU using some of the above imput. Am i on the right trank on this one or do i need more adjusting. please let me know what changes you think would help the design
cheers again guys
antony
your WP looks to be about 12 miles ahead of center … that’s about 20 kilometers, for you kiwis. bring it back toward center. try it with a nose measurement around 18-18.5, tail around 15.5, and square off the tail block a little better.
unless you’re actually cutting this on a machine, don’t worry about rocker, foil, and bottom contours just yet. for now, let’s just get a good plan shape and make a template from it.
Stump
dont work so hard at this
its very easy
just get your outline figured out
get the balnk you want to use its probly gonna be ether( if your making a 9.6 length) 9.8Y or 9.8D
Y = Yater and D = Downing
these blanks have the correct rocker for a nose rider
just cut the outline
skin it to the thickness you want and do up your rails
50/50 rails nose to tail
leave the bottom flat and go nose ride the shit out of it
My 2 cnts
…that’s precisely what i was getting at, and definitely the best way to go. get your planshape sorted… let the blank dictate the rest.