Very true Shark. What I like about your posts is that you are always experimenting with different materials and methods, but do so in a very practical way. You, Stoneburner and Lemat are real thinkers when it comes to the cutting edge of surfboard construction. But you my bradda put it into a practical context. I always point my ears and listen carefully and re-read multiple times to be sure I understand as I am a dull country boy. The three of you are the best and though I may not necessarily put your methods into use, I have learned a great deal form the three of you. Lowel
Thanks Lowell. I really appreciate the comment.
Your lucky to have that WP tool. It’s no longer made. I’ve been searching for a tool similar to that to perforate the painters plastic I wrap around board during layup (as a peel ply) before vacuum bagging my lams. Ebay currently has one but the bids are up to $67 (that’s way to rich for my blood).
Wow. Just checked. Couldn’t find one anywhere online. I moved mine to a safer storage spot this evening so I won’t lose it.
It is not too complex. Just some 1-1/4" washers on a 3/16" shaft with thin metal tyne wheels between the washers. Because it is just under 1" wide, I have considered making something similar that it is 2"-3" wide. The hardest part would be cutting 1-1/4" diameter, thin tyne wheels – have considered using canned food tops/bottoms for tyne wheels. (Larger diameter washers, tyne wheels and shaft could be used.)
Thanks for getting back to me. The closest tool I could find to it was a wallpaper perforating tool made by Warner. It was over $40 as well. Problem is no one stocks it on the Central Coast here & I would really like to see how sharp the needles are before buying it.
I previously bought something on Amazon called a Micro Derma Roller (apparently the beauty industry uses these to punch a bunch of holes in the face for treatment-Weird?), but the needles were too fine and wouldnt put holes in the plastic. Also, it was only about an inch wide as well.
Maybe making one is the solution.The sewing & needlecraft hobbies have a"pattern making" tool which is just one metal tyne wheel. I don’t know how sharp the tynes are though. I’ll have to look into whether replacement wheels are available.
The exact tool you are looking for is a “porcupine rolller.” It is pricey.
Another version is made for carpet backing. Pricey also.
Also there is a tire perforating tool. Very pricey.
Below is a photo of the basic components of my Woodpecker Tool. The tyne wheel is about 0.02" thick. For me, the linear (vs. circular) shaped perforations are important/preferred.
(BTW I noticed there is another WP tool listed on eBay – for the moment, current bid is less than $67.)
Harry,
That “WARTENBERG Medical Diagnostic PINWHEEL 7 ROWS” looks like it might have good potential for Parthenon’s perforating needs.
Only unknown is the 7-wheel head width.
Nice find.
On the sunshine coast here, there are quite a fey guys using XPS as a core for glass less boards with layers of 2 mm Paulownia veneers, over the deck and bottom combined with cork strips on the rails.
Combining the EPS with foaming PU glues and vaccum bagging you can get a really strong board with limited delam issue.
Foaming PU glue is the best for XPS and EPS. In my experience you have to make sure the glue covers the whole board. Air gaps are where a delam occurs. It also helps to keep the foam slightly rougher like 100 grit or 60 grit media.
When I was a kid we used styrofoam boards that were not glassed or sealed. They didn’t last long, but it is possible to ride them without glass. We could also get the styrofoam boards with wood stringers. They’d always break right where the wood starts or ends. We learned what “rash” was riding those things.
I just did a google search and found those. I may try using one of those if I make another XPS board. I have enough foam for another short board. I like the idea of gluing wood veneer directly to the foam with foaming PU glue, then I can glass over that. I think that would solve delams, and I still have quite a bit of thin balsa.
Thanks for finding those Wartenburg devices. The 7pin version is exactly what I was looking for. I talked with Stoneburner (thru pm’s) and we both decided to each order (2) of them. They aren’t very expensive to “experiment” with and will I keep everybody posted on how they work when I start my next build next week.
Cheers,
Chris
Adam,
You referring to Steve at etc? https://www.etcsurfboards.com.au/board-types
I’d be keen to hear how his boards ride. Have come across him in a few different ways and seems like a thoughtful shaper. Let me know if you’ve riden one of his shapes, interesting fella!
Got my WARTENBERG (7-Row) PINWHEEL Tools today. Tested them on some Foamular 250 XPS. Worked well. They look like micro-perforating tool jewels. Nice stainless steel handles and wheels (got some foam dust on the bottom tool handle).
If I didn’t have my TopFlite WP tool, they would be my go to XPS perforator. Should work great for Parthenon’s application. Will use the WP on top and bottom surfaces and Wartenberg tool for the rails.
Combine the pinwheels from 2, Wartenberg 7-Wheel tools and you have a very affordable “Porcupine Tool.” (Paid $14.52 on eBay for 2, delivered.)
Great find Harry.
