How many of you swayaholics ride longboards no matter what? Jacked-up low tide barrels…Longboard. Screaming down the line freight trains…Longboard. Macking overhead monsters with a nasty shore pound? Just wondering, Scott.
How many of you swayaholics ride longboards no matter what? Jacked-up low > tide barrels…Longboard. Screaming down the line freight > trains…Longboard. Macking overhead monsters with a nasty shore pound? > Just wondering, Scott. For me it’s not a matter of “no matter what” but choice. I riding my long boards, I have about a dozen. I also have one short board - 7’8" Max McDonald Rocket Fish which is a ton of fun but it doesn’t get ridden a lot due to about 200lbs on this frame. Actually for me it’s about 10’ or nothin’ (unless it’s my 7’8"). Ride what you want, in what you want, and respect those outside and inside.
i ride longboards in anything from blown out ankle high nothing to 10 foot shorebreak. it doesnt matter. longboards are always fun. but i also ride other types of boards too. when the conditions change i usually adjust my equipment… but not always. basically… i will ride anything in anything
i ride longboards in anything from blown out ankle high nothing to 10 foot > shorebreak. it doesnt matter. longboards are always fun. but i also ride > other types of boards too. when the conditions change i usually adjust my > equipment… but not always. basically… i will ride anything in anything I basically will ride a long board in anything, But when we are getting a hurricane or winter north easter. There are some breaks around here that no matter how big, it’s more of a long board type wave and the more agressive spots, I feel are short board waves. Since we do have the advantage, as far as paddleing farther outside, I will leave these breaks to the short boarders. Occasionally, I will experiment with friends boards, usually under head high waves, usually mid-lenght, fun shapes. Last week, I did play with a buddies, 6’4" thruster(Patterson). Had some fun !!! Last thing I want to do is hurt anyone out there, after all it is about fun, isn’t it ?
How many of you swayaholics ride longboards no matter what? Jacked-up low > tide barrels…Longboard. Screaming down the line freight > trains…Longboard. Macking overhead monsters with a nasty shore pound? > Just wondering, Scott. This is where I’ve got an issue with out of shape longboarders going out in jacking beachbreak on lame retro longboards, they are quite simply dangerous, they can’t make the drops, can’t duckdive, run over the groms on the inside. Board selection is definately important to match to the conditions. Midsize boards can be made to to mesh with longboard quivers. A typical example would be a 7’8" 21.5"wide 3"thick bigboy thruster. Go get one, make one, borrow one, whatever! But quit wasting your surf time on wrong equipment, embarrassing yourself getting drilled by jacking winter waves cause you don’t want your longboard club buddies to trip. Just one man’s opinion. Try it, you might like getting covered up, doing off the lips etc.
There’s this BIG “portagee”/Hawaiian guy, Leonard, who used to surf BIG WAVES with a standard longboard (BIG Haleiwa, Laniakea, all breaks near Ehukai - INCLUDING big Pipe) with that thing …way after longboards went out of favor…and before the longboard “renaissance”. He was so big that nobody but nobody would either question his choice of boards, nor F*#@ with him. Even Ben Aipa would keep it closed and let him get waves. If any of you have seen Leonard surf (and I’m sure a few of you Cali guys have…you know EXACTLY who I’m talking about). He’s one of those semi-anonymous guys who rip on - what you’d think would be - the wrong equipment for the job ; but would just blow minds with his performance in hairy power surf. It just goes to show you…it ain’t all about the board. A hui hou…Tom.
surfhungry, i totally agree. i respect longboarding and it’s history, dig watching guys at malibu who can actually surf them, but as an equalizer to age and more importantly skill it’s a blight on surfing. last week i was blatantly dropped in on three times in a row(on head high waves) by a guy on a 9’+ board, all 3 times i just kept it in the pocket the whole time while he just stood there. i live in l.a. where the skill level of the average surfer seems to be lower than other areas farther south, and the number of truly dangerous longboarders is laughable. as for actually surfing a longboard, i’ve got one, but the sensation doesn’t even compare for me. i always feel like it’s the board doing the surfing instead of the surfer. i also agree that the typical screw faced bunnyhopping 6’1" shortboarder struggling to stay on a wave isn’t pretty either, but the whole longboard revival seems for me like a step backward. all you guys who do surf them well and with consideration of the others around you(especially in heavier conditions) i tip my hat to you. all you guys who can’t surf anything else…well…
Thanks for understanding, I’m not picking on any one group,in fact the best longboarders in the world are from my neighborhood. With the Roxy girls, Velzy beerbellys, and Diva surfschools clogging up my local beachbreak, wave possession just isn’t being observed/taught these days. I learned the hard way, fights and threats(70’s)! Now it’s Dings and Liabilities! My impatience has forced me to surf non-longboard club surf spots where every kook isn’t falling over the falls in front of my down the line pump. My grom surf team kids are much safer away from the lame ‘popular’ over-rated breaks anyway. Board selection is the responsability of the rider to be able to safely handle the conditions at hand. Accidents do happen but a 10’ Volan log going over the falls at your skull and new 6’6" $475. Rusty isn’t gonna be pretty!!!Scott W, I realize this isn’t exactually answering your question but I’ve got a idea this has crossed your mind also, oh yea, much respect to your brother a “top notch” longboarder and a pleasure to surf with.
How many of you swayaholics ride longboards no matter what? Jacked-up low > tide barrels…Longboard. Screaming down the line freight > trains…Longboard. Macking overhead monsters with a nasty shore pound? > Just wondering, Scott. For those who can rip heavy waves with a long board good on you mate, but being a shaper you should know better. No matter how hard you ripped that wave you could have cranked it up a notch on a high performance board. Even if you are 200 plus you just need the right dimensionsfor you. That is if you rip. Even joel tudor has enough sense not to bestuck on his longboards or that mentality . There is a tudor video interview where he states guys who try to ride longboards like shortboards are lame. What’s the point it’s counterproductive to the design. There built for the glide.
Well, I didn’t mean to start any trouble and when I posted the question I was thinking of those dudes at the end of the movie contours who are ripping some exotic reef break somewhere in the South pacific. I wasn’t thinking some kook going over the falls and plowing thru the lineup like a foam and volan flash flood. Next time I’ll be more specific. Sorry folks. For the record I have only used my LB on days that were not conducive to short boards and I usually surf something in the low 7’s (yep a B.B. thruster). Thanks for the responses, Scott. PS I think you may have me confused with another scott. My bro. loves his longboard, but he still has a little way to go befor he’s top notch.
There’s this BIG “portagee”/Hawaiian guy, Leonard, who used to > surf BIG WAVES with a standard longboard (BIG Haleiwa, Laniakea, all > breaks near Ehukai - INCLUDING big Pipe) with that thing …way after > longboards went out of favor…and before the longboard > “renaissance”. He was so big that nobody but nobody would either > question his choice of boards, nor F*#@ with him. Even Ben Aipa would keep > it closed and let him get waves. If any of you have seen Leonard surf (and > I’m sure a few of you Cali guys have…you know EXACTLY who I’m talking > about). He’s one of those semi-anonymous guys who rip on - what you’d > think would be - the wrong equipment for the job ; but would just blow > minds with his performance in hairy power surf. It just goes to show > you…it ain’t all about the board. A hui hou…Tom. Amen - all you guys who think shortboard ripping is theonly point to surfing or being a surfer are just Slater wanna-be’s. It’s about soul and style…regardless of size or fitness…I’m 6’4", 275 so I know…think about how muchmore difficult it is for someone larger to even get out there and do it…takes even MORE dedication and commitment to the true surf ethos “the best surfer is the one who has the most fun”.
I currently ride (only) a 9’7" singlefin in everything from 2’ to 6’ surf, right here in wonderful Orange County. Does me good, for what I want!>>> How many of you swayaholics ride longboards no matter what? Jacked-up low > tide barrels…Longboard. Screaming down the line freight > trains…Longboard. Macking overhead monsters with a nasty shore pound? > Just wondering, Scott.
it amazes me how often i get asked, “why are you on your longboard?!” this normally happens when there are “shortboardable” waves. my response is always, “why are you on your shortboard?!” i’m of the opinion that it doesn’t matter what you’re riding, it’s ALL surfing to me.
Well, I didn’t mean to start any trouble and when I posted the question I > was thinking of those dudes at the end of the movie contours who are > ripping some exotic reef break somewhere in the South pacific. I wasn’t > thinking some kook going over the falls and plowing thru the lineup like a > foam and volan flash flood. Next time I’ll be more specific. Sorry folks. > For the record I have only used my LB on days that were not conducive to > short boards and I usually surf something in the low 7’s (yep a B.B. > thruster). Thanks for the responses, Scott. PS I think you may have me > confused with another scott. My bro. loves his longboard, but he still has > a little way to go befor he’s top notch. YEP, SORRY WRONG id ON YOU. I OWN AND RIDE A HALF DOZEN LONGBOARDS ALONG WITH SHORTY’S, THE BITCH IS ABOUT DANGEROUS UNLEASHED LOGS RIDDEN BY CLUELESS ILL-EQUIPPED PEOPLE WHO CAN’T HANDLE PITCHING/SUCKING WAVES ‘TO BEGIN WITH’, THERE- FORE INDANGERING ALL PADDLING OUT INSIDE. I PERSONALLY WOULD RECONSIDER PADDLEING OUT UNLESS CAPABLE OF HOLDING MY OWN(WHICH I CAN), BUT STILL FIND MYSELF DIVING TO AVOID KOOKS BOARDS WHO HAVE PEARLED UP TO THEIR NECK! SOMEDAY WE ALL WILL GET BLASTED BY AN UNLEASED AIRPLANE WING AND WON’T EXACTLY KEEP THE “NO WORRIES BRAH” ATTITUDE AS YOU ARE FEELING THE FIN GASH ACROSS YOUR BOARD YOU LOVE. NO INSULT AIMED AT ‘COMPETENT’ LONGBOARDERS IN GENERAL. A GOOD WAY TO PUT IT WOULD BE LIKE GETTING STUCK ON THE FREEWAY BEHIND AN OLD LADY GOING 45 IN A 65MPH, OR BLOCKING THE AISLE IN VONS WITH THEIR SHOPPING CART,… “NO CLUE”… LONGBOARD/SHORTBOARD FLAREUPS ARE BECOMING MORE COMMON AND I HATE TO SAY IT’S BECAUSE LONGBOARDERS GENERALLY DON’T PLAY BY THE AGE OLD RULES, THEREFORE INCITING FRICTION. THIS IS JUST AN OBSERVATION BY A VERY EXPERIENCED SURFER/SHAPER/KOOK INFLICTED DING REPAIR-ER, WISHING THAT THE NO-NECK VELZY BEER BELLYS WOULD STOP GIVING LONGBOARDERS A BAD REP BY THEIR BAD CHOICE OF WAVE RIDING VEHICLES(GO TO SAN-O,TOURMALINE,DOHENY,CARDIFF REEF,BEACONS,ETC) UNTIL YOU HAVE THE ATHLETIC DEXTERITY TO BEND YOUR NO-NECK TO SEE YOU ARE DROPPING IN ON A SURFER WHO ALREADY HAS WAVE POSSESSION. AND AFTER THAT HAS BEEN ACCOMPLISHED WORK ON LOOKING MORE THAT TEN FEET IN FRONT OF YOU TO SEE YOU ARE HEADED INTO A COLLISION COURSE WITH INSIDERS. “YOU” IS A GENERAL INCOMPASSING WORD MEANING “DANGEROUS HARMFUL KOOK WAY OVER HIS/HER HEAD”, A PROBLEM SINCE THE GIDGET MOVIE OF THE 60’S. CARE TO DEBATE THE VALIDITY OF THIS TOPIC???
No debate here. I totaly agree with you.