This is a custom HP longboard made for Yuichi in San Diego.
It has custom made G-10 fins made by myself for the board.
All the boards i post are custom made for someone and open for discussion.
This is a custom HP longboard made for Yuichi in San Diego.
It has custom made G-10 fins made by myself for the board.
All the boards i post are custom made for someone and open for discussion.
Beautiful. Tell us about the bottom. And for wave conditions/wave was it built for. thx
…well the shape looks really nice
I like the nose thickness and the fin tilt
also the last 1/3 of the outline
3 stage rocker?
do you glass and finish your shapes?
It has my standard longboard bottom which is tri plane forward going to 4 planes just behind center to 2 planes in front of the fins to flat behind the fins. Its 3/32" deep
This multi plane bottom allows the large area of a longboard to constantly go to smaller planes and change the angle of those planes to give this large area the livelyness of a shortboard. Its made to ride all sizes of waves and its all 4 oz glassing makes it quicker due to its low weight.
I got a question With the waves in the backround why are you not SURFING! Boards look great as usual-josh
To let you know what i make after being hidden away at T&C.
They make stores , i make surfboards.
Is the stringer material plywood? If so, how do you get it in 9’ lengths (unless you go diagonally on a 4x8 sheet). Also, are the rails tucked under for water release from all the planes/chines?
Interesting approach to a bottom, with angular planes/chines.
JSS
Its a King Mac blank and you would have to ask them.
In the beginning of downrails the boards had a zippered edge all the way around.
Brewers first improvement was to put a slight tuck, i call it the lobe, that creates a slight suction to the wave face giving control to the edge’s sliddy feel. You can adjust its size and shape to create whatever you want.
Greg,
Many thanks for posting in Swaylocks! Your boards and fins are so refined and beautiful. I’d also love to see some shaping room photos, e.g. w/shadows from side lights showing subtle contours.
Aloha
Do you ever employ the multi plane bottom in your shortboard designs, particularly larger or wider shortboards to create liveliness? For example, would a wider, fish-type board for fat conditions benefit from this type of mutltiplane bottom?
It has my standard longboard bottom which is tri plane forward going to 4 planes just behind center to 2 planes in front of the fins to flat behind the fins. Its 3/32" deep
This multi plane bottom allows the large area of a longboard to constantly go to smaller planes and change the angle of those planes to give this large area the livelyness of a shortboard. Its made to ride all sizes of waves and its all 4 oz glassing makes it quicker due to its low weight.
simply awesome. i’m not sure which makes me more jealous – your knowledge of design, your ability to shape incredible boards, or your backyard. what i wouldn’t give…
It has my standard longboard bottom which is tri plane forward going to 4 planes just behind center to 2 planes in front of the fins to flat behind the fins. Its 3/32" deepThis multi plane bottom allows the large area of a longboard to constantly go to smaller planes and change the angle of those planes to give this large area the livelyness of a shortboard. Its made to ride all sizes of waves and its all 4 oz glassing makes it quicker due to its low weight.
Very nice board… can you explain more about what you mean by 3/4/2 planes… and how it is done? I can’t see anything in the pictures, though even on a 23" LCD I would not expect to see 3/32".
Maybe some shaping room lights and shadows like suggested could help with the understanding. Even if from another board as this sounds like your regular LB design.
As for the stringer question… It looks to me to be a T-band.
–4est
Hi Greg! simply beautiful board there! just a quick question. how far up is that back fin? and sides?
Cheers Mate!
Some comments on the use and making this multi plane bottom.
When full shaping i would put the rocker in the bottom and then take vee cut around the board 1/8" deep. Then from the tail you move the vee panels inward with deeper to shallower passes fading just past center. This leaves the nose with a 2" wide vee cut near the rail and a raised center section -flat - tri plane. Behind that you have the fading passes to just past center dropping the side planes a little to form a slight vee in the center, this gives you 2 side planes and 2 center planes = 4-planes .Then the side planes are moved inward and shallower becoming a vee- 2 planes .Then behind the fins the Vee is flattened for a 1 plane exit. This starts with a level tri plane forward, slowly the planes on the sides drop in hight and increase in width changing the angles of the planes to a more releasing angle as you move to the rear of the board. All this without having to add speed reducing rocker.
Greg, sweet board. Peter at Moonlight showed me the blog today when i was up there. Yuichi is going to be stoked! Can’t wait to meet you when you get out here. talk to you soon,
Josh
very cool, I think I followed all of that. Next question how hard or soft are the edges of the plane? Is the outside edge of the plane just blended into the rail?
The edge or definition of the edge from plane to plane is subtile , remember its only 3/32 " deep.
The outside planes flatten out at the edge of the rail , if they didn’t the rail would not set well and slip out.