after snapping my stringerless 9’0" last summer at San’o point last summer, it had a pretty good run, March to August, I started a new one right away, right away in the surfing world is a bigger time span than outside of the surfing world. I got it finally completed on Friday Jan, 4th, took it with me to the Doheny club contest at Churches this past weekend. I opted to ride my polyester, as I was familiar with it, got a nice head high from my first wave, gave Steve Bigler a toenail trim on the first wave and wrapped my front foot in the leash about 3 twists on the second and only other wave, got last in the heat, BooHoo, some one had to come in last and that day it was me.
Hoofed it back to the old 101 parking behind Lowers and pulled out the new EPS, the old one I surfed first in Hawaii at # 3’s, had to adjust the center fin and the Lokbox sides to get it comfortable, this one, I eyeballed what looked good, waxed 'er up. Walked up to Middles, paddled out, had an Asian goober on hs Firewire drop right in one me first wave, I kept an eye on him, he rode only in front of others on EVERY wave.
Got another set headed at me, Forkin’A, Kelly was channeling himself through my legs and feet, should have paddled out blind on it in my heat, couldn’t have done any worse.
So positive in turns and cutbacks, but everything rides good in a down the line point / reef wave, but I came in with a smile on my face, this one is even better than the broken one.
I kept the same outline and rocker, thickness, the only change from a flat / slightly roll in the the first was, single concave under my front foot, I don’t like to jump radically from one concept to another when dialing in a shape that works well.
(edited by moderator to embed pics)
