Thanks johnmellor I’ll get one up as soon as it gets wet.
You missed my point. If you can cut out and true a Masonite template and have done so enough times then you should be able to Shape a Blank that is symmetrical and has a continuous rail, top and bottom from tail to nose. If that’s the case your eye should be good enough to pull tape from nose to tail for a cutlap or pin line. If not you need more practice; or you need to fall back on one of the many marking devices that have been Mcgivor’ed by the many Creative Sways members we have on this forum
I see what your saying, and your right I need more practice. This was my first attempt at cut laps and pinlines, but I learn by trying. Now that I have tried I have already seen several ways I could have done it better. Thank you for your advice.
That’s the trip. Learn by doing but be able to take a little constructive criticism. Honestly it is easier to perfect your chops by taking on only one part of the puzzle and getting good at that part first. If you have the option; take your boards to a Pro-glasser. Concentrate on the shaping and training your eye. The shapes will get better and look better. Plus you will see a lot of small technique and tricks by spending a little time around a Glass Shop.
Rode it yesterday, Newport was not great, very small but I was able to find some knee high to hip high lefts. The board catches waves really well, turns well, and is pretty quick. The only thing I was having a hard time with was keeping the fin locked in while on the tip. This was a Lance Collins blank so it has a ton of rocker, I think it will nose ride well in waves with a little more juice.
I don’t recall if the board has a finbox or if it has a glass-on fin. A bigger fin with some rake and ‘hook’ in the trailing edge might help hold the tail down better.
It has a fin box, right no I’m running a 9.5" Farberow flex.
If you want to get the tail to stick better, don’t be afraid to go bigger and rakier.