Paul, I wouldn’t dare dream of making you make one. 
PM atcha.
Good idea on laying tape, then cutting it with a razor… Ok Todd, sounds like it’s up to you to come up with a razor-holding apparatus… Maybe one of those skinnier x-acto blade handles?
Single edge razor blades are cheap and have a possible screw hole in 'em to start…
Put a washer or two, or three between 'em and if you do it right, have a consistent cut line…
Just a thought…
Already working on that one.
I think I’m going to do a little PaulJensen/Shwuz hybrid thingy.
I got the inspiration from a tool that originalsin put up a while back.
I’ll keep you informed.
First load in the mail today, only ten left not sold/spoken for.
Can’t wait!
I’ll post up the adjustable cutting tool as soon as I get it done.
Shwuz, Ask your buddy Jeff at Spindrift if he borrowed that name. I had a Spindrift long ago and know for a fact it were’nt him.
Or was it? Cut laps by hand. Steep learning curve but once you get the feel and technique more better.
Fun waves yesterday in the islands. Clean.
I’ll ask him, he’s out of town through the new year, but I’ll run that by him when he gets back. You have any photos of your old spindrift?
Yeah, I’ll probably keep cutting my laps by hand even if someone comes up with a razor-holder. I actually kind of enjoy he tactile sensation unzipping a fresh lam… Now, I would definitely use the razor-holder on the tapejob though. 
And on opaque and CF lams, a razor-holder would be the bee’s knees!
.
Aloha Schwuz:
Here is a design I have been working on for a lap cutting tool. I had one similar to this many years ago and have been wanting to make a new one for some time now so I finally decided to work up a design.
This allows either a pencil of a single edged blade to be clamped in the tool. The drawing does not show the clamping mechanism but it is basically a set of knobs that tighten into threaded inserts. Once I get the clamping knobs added to the drawing I can re-post it but thought I would get this out there for people to look at. The rods are 3/8" stainless steel. The original that I had was made out of casting resin so that it had some considerable weight behind it, this weight made it really easy to use when using it to cut laps as you basically could just rest it on the board and then cut.
My motive for designing this one was so that I can use it for cutting veneers for doing compsand boards. It would allow you to lay down tape, cut the tape, bag on the veneers and then cut the veneers with the tool without worrying about leaving any tape under the veneer. Once it is finished I will post photos of the finished product.
-Robin
very nice Robin!
what package do you use for drawing?
Aloha surfingdog:
I’m currently using VectorWorks 2009, but am actively looking for other modeling programs that run on the Mac. No that I don’t liek VectorWorks just trying to find something more powerful and flexible!
-Robin
aloha
id have a mac if i could but work have just bought me a cnc router to play with and they prefer solidworks and artcam so im pc based for now
fingers crossed ill get a new laptop with all the software at the start of jan when the cnc arrives then its time to quickly start learning! cant wait
my first project i want to do is start routing fins out of panels!
dog
thats the shizzle. i saving for a purpose bulit cnc to do that too. i have been looking for an old pantograph in the meantime to make nice bases for removable fins. solidworks2009 will run on a mac via bootcamp. but it has no support. fins and surfboards are very simple things for solidworks so no probs there. its when you get into detailed multi part things that you would not trust the program on the mac… it can just die and lose everything. i have run gibbscam, pro E and rhino all successfully on mac via VMware.
Aloha feraldave:
Yes! I’m looking forward to the release of Rhino on the Mac. I have been BETA testing it and have high hopes for it, but there is no idea when it will eventually be released.
I have also been playing with Modo 301 that looks good!
-Robin
Shwuz, Ask your buddy Jeff at Spindrift if he borrowed that name. I had a Spindrift long ago and know for a fact it were’nt him.
Or was it? Cut laps by hand. Steep learning curve but once you get the feel and technique more better.
Fun waves yesterday in the islands. Clean.
Aloha Screwfoot
Spindrift was a shop in Santa Barbara that was opened by Bob Haakenson in about 1968/69 if I remember right, after he moved up there from San Diego area. Firstly a retail shop they made boads under the Spindrift label with Dickie Moon shaping some, then later a guy from the east coast… can’t remember his name but he was a good shaper, who made one of the best boards I ever rode at Rincon, then later another shaper named Rich Reed did them. Bob moved to Hawaii in about 1971 I made boards with him in the Church at Waimea Bay. I think Andreini took over Spintrift but did so as Andreini Surfboards. Eventually Bob moved back to Santa Barbara with his wife and 2 kids. I think Bob and Rich made some Spindrift boards into the 80s.
For the last few decades, Bob has been “Haakenson Glass” in Goleta, primarily doing boards for Channel Islands. I think Rich Reed is shaping for Channel Islands also.
I don’t know who officially owns the rights to the “Spindrift” name these days… But… Isn’t that “Spindrift” T-shirt, the guy in the photo is wearing, actually…??
Very cool design, hand-shaper, and props to your CAD skills!
Here’s what I would change, though. Your design still leaves room for wander when the tool isn’t held perfectly vertical, just like the combination square example I showed before. If you extended the main body of your tool, the part with the rounded rail guides, and made it about about three times as long, then put a vertical t-slot right between the guides, you could have a bottom guide at 90 degrees to the rail guides that would keep the tool in alignment while allowing for a change in board thickness as it moved along. Basically the same concept as mine, only with the bottom guide being adjustable for thickness rather than the pencil itself.
Maybe even rig up a spring system so the bottom guide is held against the bottom of the board as the thickness changes?
Cool stuff!
BTW- I’m down to the my last 6 now. Stoked there’s been lots of folks interested in trying it out.
Aloha Schwuz:
Yes! I looked at your design and the idea about having a guide that ran along the bottom, while I liked the idea, I decided this overly complicated the design because then you had to have a mechanism to control dealing with the thickness as you move down the board.
Plus I really don’t like the idea of something running along the bottom of the shaped blank, it is bad enough having it running along the rails.
I wanted to keep it real simple and based on my experience with my previous tool I never seemed to have a problem keeping it close to vertical, and certainly never had any problems with it wandering. I glassed a few thousand surfboards using that tool and never had a problem.
My plan is to add a level bubble to the top of the main body to make it easier to ensure that it is being held close to vertical. I think one of the reasons that this did not end up being a problem with the previous design was because of the additional heft that the tool had, this seemed to make it easier to control, basically the weight was doing the cutting or marking and all the user was doing was walking the tool and keeping it correctly oriented.
-Robin
Mahalo for the history Bill. Hope you are feeling better. Shaped my first semi-guns from your old 7’8" (?) Clark plug. Great blank.
Thanks Screwfoot
Glad I could help! Those were some fun times.
That would be the 7’9" Clark Blank. Wish I had the plug back for that one. Somwhere between Clark’s Barn in Oregon and the Factory closing down it has disappeared! I got some back, just not all of them. If anyone knows who snatched my 7’9" plug, feel free to rat them out.
Of particular pleasure to me is the fact that I got my 10’6" Plug back and also one of the last remaining blanks in existence, from that very plug! Way cool. Nice matching pair.
…hello BB,
when you say “I got some back” do you mean those heavy concrete molds?
I guess that you need a lot of space to storage those
also, thoughts that CF had more than 1 mold of each plug…
thanks
