A couple final sanding/gloss questions...

1.) Almost done sanding my hotcoat now. It’s a 9’6" noserider, full tinit (deck and bottom), cutlaps, etc…There are 5-6 places on the lap line (deck side) that bubbled up during the deck lam, that are now air bubbles. A few are just “bumps” with air underneath, and a few opened up when sanding, with foam showing underneath. Should I inject some hotcoat in them and sand that down, then gloss, or should I sand them all down completely, patch with cloth, glass, then sand? They are all dime-size or smaller…

2.) I’ve never glossed a board this big, how much resin would you recommend for each side, 1qt? 2 qts? And for kicking it, I’ll be working tonight, probably in 65(ish) degree temp. Kick at maybr 15-20cc per qt?

…the big problem with 1.- is the resin tint…if you dont save some , well, it´s really difficult to match the color…or may be you went with yellow…

…you can do the two things to fill the holes, but remember that all these “zones” were weakers…

2-…1/2 K is enough for each side…, leftovers also…

…i´m not recomend to do a gloss coat with less than 25C…I think the best is at 27C Constant without air currents"…

You’re saying half a quart for each side, kicked around 14cc’s? Or did I read that wrong…

You mean you’d do 27cc’s for a quart, correct? I can’t see how I’d gloss a 9’6" board with 1/2 quart of resin. That must be a SUPER thin gloss coat, no?

Scott,

I use 25-30 cc per 16 oz of gloss. Around here it will kick in less than 15 min. It goes like, gloss, walk out, clean your brush, get beverage, open door, pull tape.

If you got patch spots best thing right now is to just try to fill them up. Besure to use less tint than the original color. Usually the holes are deeper and will fill up with more resin and therefore look darker…really hard to match, good luck.

Best thing is to try to slit the dry spots open with a razor blade and inject some clear resin in them, and then sand them down. repete if necessary.

-Jay

…tenover, 27 ºC TEMP. constant

Got it…thanks. Jay- i like your schedule there, sounds like we’re on the same page. I’ll bring the board to Keiths so you can check out my “handywork”. Oh, I must say, it REEEEAAALLLLLY makes a difference on the cutlaps when you use good tape! My buddy came over with two rolls of tape when I did these cutlaps, and all though the actual cut came out real clean, there was lots of bleeding underneath the tape. Oh well…Bought some good stuff and did some more cutlaps on a different board yesterday with the good stuff, and they came out crystal clear, almost as good as the ones you did for me on my fish…Thanks.

Tenover,

I sanded through an air bubble on the deck of my board (deck clear). It left a dime-nickle size aera of exposed foam. I filled with 2 layers of glass. one cut to the fit down inside the whole and the other slightly larger like a regulare ding repair. I first handsanded around the whole to lower the level of the hotcoat to make blending the patch work easier.

The other great sanding move was a nice 3 inch diamiter sand through in the tail while taking down the fin box. I patched it the same way mixing up another small batch of yellow to repair the botom. Since I was going to mix up a batch of colored I also sanded down the bad tailored cuts on the tail corners and patched those as well.

All of the patches are undetectable in the finished, but maybe that was the benefit of doing yellow.

Oh yeah, I don’t have my notes (on my laptop at work) but I think I did my hot coat and my gloss coat with 18oz per side of epoxy (half quart = 16oz). This was for a 10’6" (big 24.5 wide thick) board. This was plenty. Did not look like enough at first but after brushing out I had plenty and was still pretty thick (noticable beedline on rail before sanding down). Would have mixed less but with epoxy I needed a divisable by 3 number.

Hoping to come to Keith’s session and also see/ride your new board.

Air bubbles: I would grind them open with a dremel (sanding barrel) and fill. Put 4 oz cloth over the fills and you won’t have weak points. You can feather the edges of the 4 oz. easily.

Resin Qty: I used a little less than 1 pint per side on the last 9’6" I glossed. I recommend that you use Kokua’s mixture added to the gloss resin which is 10% styrene, 5% SA, and 1 1/2% cat. That’s a lot of styrene combined with what’s already in the gloss, so it goes a long way. You need to pull the tape as soon as possible since the styrene will bleed adhesive off the best tapes. Also get a thick bristle 4" brush which will minimize the brush marks. I’ve used Kokua’s mix on a lot of boards, and the difference with straight gloss resin is night and day (no runs, very few zits and brush marks). Best of all, you can start sanding the tape lines with 320 and 400 on the flats.

The one board I gloss coated was a 7’0" x 20" and 10 oz. was all i used. Gloss coat THIN!

…Hey PeteC, this proportion (styrene and sa) are standard my man…the critical is the resin viscosity and quality…

Yes, these are common proportions for making a gloss or hot coat resin from lam resin. I was talking about mixing this with regular gloss resin right from the can. I haven’t mixed more than a pint, but these proportions give the right viscosity that produces a very smooth finish which needs almost no sanding except for tape lines. Silmar gloss resin works fine this way as well as Reichold.

Wow…that was kind of sketchy. I just glossed the top of my 9’6" with one quart of resin (kicked at 55cc’s). I poured it on, brushed it out and I for sure thought there wasn’t enough, but after cross stroking twice, it all evened out. Thanks for the help. I must’ve been putting my gloss on SUPER thick in the past. Oh, and it kicked in exactl 17 minutes…perfect. Thanks Jay.

…hey Tenover, 55 cc´s!!!, man, its 5.5%!! seems to me that you ve got the gloss, but brittle…

Quote:

I use 25-30 cc per 16 oz of gloss

I was using Resinheads recommendation…