On this log, short video at http://www.olosurfer.com/D11-9s.wmv
Looked like some fun waves! Some nice long rides too.
How long is that board? and what kind of wood is it made of? Looks very very nice
I’m stoked I get to be building one like that soon!
Thanks APeek
That’s my old faithful 11’9" by 27", refinished and refinned, it’s got a Monterey Pine bottom, Monterey Pine, Pacific Red Cedar, Western Red Cedar and Redwood deck, Paulownia rails and Pine frames.
As you can see I have been goofing off, some more drawings coming your way today (promise)
PS we cut off the second half of the rides, they were twice as long, but just whitewater to the beach, of course camerawoman Dragon missed the 3 best rides as baby Andrew tried to chase seagulls over cliff ;0
Sweet will be looking foward to them.
Man I dont blame you for goofing off either, I would be doing the same thing!
And the rides were twice as long, crazy! Yeh think saving the little one is just a little more important than catchin some video!..lol
ah jaysus, i would just about kill for some point waves about now…
Nice clip Roy,
I wish I could get some long rides like those over here, but no such luck.
Have you ever lost one of your boards into another surfer? I was thinking that if mine would easly crush a skull, yours would proably take one off…scary wepons these wooden boards could be.
Cheers.
that’s an interesting set of numbers
“Dragon missed the 3 best rides as baby Andrew tried to chase seagulls over cliff ;0”
yep , I can relate to that …
I can sit on the beach for HOURS in winter , patiently waiting to get some good shots .
Sure enough , as soon as I walk 50 metres to take a slash , some hottie will pull into the tube of the day , make it out , and run up the beach to abuse me because I didn’t “get the shots” .
9 times out of ten , the same “hottie”, if I got the shots , wouldn’t buy them anyway , or even be interested in them , because “you can’t see my sponsors stickers in the photos” …
THIS is one of the many reasons why I would rather be surfing [or , at the very least , in the WATER taking photos.]
A thankless cold job , full of unappreciative spoilt kids who think they should have photos and gear GIVEN to them , just because they surf well.
Yep , I’ve done my nearly thirty years of sitting on cold windswept beaches , watching OTHERS [occassionally] getting good waves …
My hat goes off to the Ted Grambeau’s of this world …
ben
They key is to bribe the photographer with blue cheese, a bong, and red wine, works every time, but sometimes the panning gets a bit suss, then again you can’t have everything.
Have you still got all your photography gear chip?
Just thinking of a couple of years back when we had no video camera, just a chemical film camera with a 600mm mirror lens and an 800mm Canon both with manual focus, we would go to the beach when it was cranking, and shoot a couple of rolls, shell out about $70 on the way home to see the prints and then throw 70 out of 72 away (relationship with photographer takes a dive when you do this) enter major depression cycle for 3 hours for being such an unphotogenic geek, then get really mad and go back and do it all again the next day. I remember buying a motordrive thinking that this would guarantee geting the right ‘moment’. . . . wrong. . . . it is possible to get motordrive geek sequences where you can watch you worst surfing habit progress in 1/5ooth of a second intervals ($70 dollars please). . . . particularly if the photographerwoman (this obviously doesn’t apply to you Ben) is at the OTHER end of the month. . . this also means that they cling grimly to their shots of one geeking it in the rain as if they rae really good.
Video is so much better, because a fast ride can be boring in still shots ( “Why the H did you take that poo stance shot allegedcamerawoman ?!!”) when actually I knew I was aiming at a section way out of th frame 100 yards away and trying to minimise wind resistance to make the wave while doing 300 mph (sp)… . . . these excuses don’t cut it with still shots at all. . . . if it looks geeky that’s it, finish, tear it up, bite the steering wheel etc.
Cracks me up when people think that one is being bigheaded for posting pictures of oneself surfing. . . if they only knew the truth, it takes a ruthless mind to post the good ones when you know that if you posted the bad ones you would never live it down !
Hi Easternpacific,
Here are a couple more numbers then: 2.5 inches thick, about 48 pounds, and the fin setup is 7 inches deep.
haha
interesting …
maybe we could do a depressing, self-pitying thread called “why being a surf photographer sucks big time …” at surfer mag , and get told off by whining 16yos …wouldn’t that be ironic ?!
But , then again , hopefully I get some waves tomorrow , or this week , when all the schoolies disappear back into their classrooms , the clubbies take the flags off the beach finally , and life resumes some semblance of winter swells and offshores and emptier waves . [Here’s hoping…
…and , being the addicted-to-photos freak I am , I might find myself paddling out with a camera somehow mysteriously having attached itself to my wetsuit zipper , from time to time …
ben