Recent “brief” commentary I have made about physics at Sways.
If only it was that simple. But it is not.
I too am a fan of physics. I use it frequently.
A proper discussion would require equations, derivation and lengthy/detailed explanations. However, I am not going to hijack Huck’s thread with that.
I will mention just a few critical factors that have not been addressed.
There are two velocities critical to surfing: take-off and planing. (I will not get into planing speed/velocity.)
Nonetheless, both are affected by surface area, force, acceleration…
Should have added this fairly simple, conceptual figure to the previous post also. Another of the many factors that affects (or is affected by) the parameters I last mentioned — wave face slope.
Wave form (spilling vs. plunging) changes wave speed, drop acceleration and time to critical take-off velocity and maximum drop velocity.
[TakeOff-Trim_VC8_0]
From: