There is a a lot of skill needed in photographing surfboards. I have just about none of it.
But, because I love seeing the way Greg Griffin’s boards are posted, I thought I would flatter him by trying to copy the look. Minus the beautiful Hawaiian beach, minus the sparkling sunshine day, minus the skill level that Greg G has. Anyway, here are my latest. One is 7-3 by 21 with a 15.25 tail and a 12 inch nose, and the other is a 7-6 by 21 3/8 with 15.5 tail and a 12.25 nose. The quads were setup using the guidance from the Aussie quad web site, the name of which I cannot seem to find again. Both are 2.6 inches thick.
The rocker on the 7-6 is from Greg Loehr’s personal board. Sam cut the blank for me and I cut in the perimeter stringers. Both use bending ply for the stringers. Not happy with the ply layup so I will look for other material next time.
The recent post about the great art on Tom Carroll’s board was just in time. The owner of the boards gave me license to do my simple rendition.
One board has rail channels (thanks for the glassing tips, not that hard) and the other is the perimeter stringer board (blank) I posted recently with the how-to pictures.
I tried laying out the green swoosh along the stringer but I couldn’t get it to look right, so I just covered the stringer with the paint. I used Design Masters rattle cans from Michaels Art. Came out very uniform and clean. Sealed it with about 6 oz of clear floor polycrylic from Home Depot. I can do it. I don’t want their help. Ya know, I sprayed that stuff on, but I wonder if I could pour it like a resin gloss coat and quickly brush it out? Anyone?
Here is a pic of the nose of the perimeter stringer board. I wanted to show how the stringers came together. This tip will not be breaking soon.
If you see these boards around San Diego, say hey to the owner at WildCoast.
I tried a test with the water based clear floor stuff after seeing how well the stuffs levels out. One side with the gun and the deck with the brush. For most parts unless you held the board just right in the light you can’t tell between the two. The only thing I would have done differently was to use a foam brush instead of one with those pesky little hairs.
The only reason that I still spray is that I found that I can apply it faster. 5 minutes with the hairdryer and I can flip the board and do the other side.
Entity, I used 2 lb EPS. The top was glassed with double 6 oz warp bias, and the bottom was single 6 oz. I had no trouble glassing the warp cloth. Good stuff.
DMP, Thanks for the tip. I may try just pouring and brushing. Here in FL, it is so hot (…well, hot hot was it?..) that the spray material drys on the board before smoothing out. It feels like a rough surface, although still very level. A light sanding takes care of it.
Iconotastic, yep thats the site. very good info. I’ve used the dim’s on other quads and felt pretty good about how they performed. Good luck on yours. We are going to need pictures.
MoKSa, I think you could go thinner on the stringer material. The bending ply is pretty light already (lighter than PVC) but still, it had what looked like a filler layer between the outside ply. Not what I thought I was getting. And it cost a butt load of money per sheet.
Maxmercy, I painted on the hotcoat, then put the clear over that. Sam Barker did a board for me a while back and did that and I was not impressed at the time. Just had a mind set that color goes under the glass. But it has held up really well and being on the outside of epoxy, the color shows so much better. Not muted under resin. I’ve done both, but kinda like this method.
