a quick design question noserider

hi guys i have just started planning my next board. I am looking at a 9'6 nose rider. i shaped one a few months back and have been riding it often. I like it  but now i want to use a similer template and make a HWS noserider.

there are a few things i wanted to change on the HWS that i did on the foamy.

 i put a 1/4 nose concave in the foam board into a rolled vee with 4 1/2 inch tail lift with a good tail flip in the last 8 inchs.

 I want to  drop my nose lift to maybe 2 3/4 and have 4 in the tail lift. i plan to remove the concave in the nose and have it dead flat. i was hoping to keep the rolled vee in the middle to tail of the board and thin out the rails alot.

what are your thoughts were would be best to blend from the flat into the vee.... maybe just behind center? 

i was thinking of 3 /16 to 1/4 of rolled vee

the foam board was great when you got over the nose concave but did not trim that well when not over it. it paddled ok but i adjusted my weight on it to try and use the concave to get speed when paddling. so i want to try and remove some of the busy-ness on the bottom of the board keep it plain and simple  

anyway i just spent a few hours seaching sways and am a bit confused on the best path to take with the bottom of the board. i think the shape and rocker set up will work but not sure what i should do on the bottom 

heres pic of foam board for reference

antony

 



hey guys i marked out the rocker on the HWS frame back bone and i am a little worried that 2 3/4 nose lift may not be enough? what are you guys thinking ?  if it will work well i will stick it, is it to low?

antony

 

Boards seem to noseride better with a super soft, round rail. You could thin them out a bit, but if you keep em round you'll be happy.

CHeck out tom weneger's ideas on this issue.

I love how that “Greenie” came out. The paddling/trimming issue may be due to a lot of tail rocker. I do the transition from “flat” to vee in the last third, but also pay attention to the rails. They need to be “dropped” about a 1/4" to 1/2" so you won’t catch them in your pivot. Asteve is right, round rails suck water.

I would stick with at least 3 inches.

I am endeavoring to build almost the same board that you are building (my 4th noserider). 9'8" noserider for my wife, who is an above average noserider who likes boards like I do.

9'8" x 23" x 19.5"(nose) x 17.5"(tail) x 3.25 thick. Rocker: 3"-ish nose/4.5"-5.5"-ish Nice full nose with a little point to help with catching an edge while noseriding. I like nice soft rails in the middle of the board but more pinched (narrow end of an egg) rails in the nose and tail. I like soft bottom contours all the way through the board. A very soft rolled bottom starting just past the concave, which is 3/16"-1/4" deep running about 24"-36" back running real close to the rails, and going to more V bottom as you get 18-24 inches from the tail. Not much V for me thanks, 3/16" or less. Nice wide square tail in the 8"-10" range. I dont like any hard edges on any part of my noseriders.

My take on noseriders, which I ride 90% of the time,(crappy florida surf) is that they are a compromise. In order for them to noseride well you sacrifice certain other somewhat user friendly features.

1. Low nose rocker ( I like 2.75-3.5") will obviously not take more critical drops or hard turns as well as a board with more rocker. But there are techniques that will help with that.

2. Nose concave pushes water when you paddle on flat water. I find that if you paddle a little farther forward on the board and make sure your core is firm almost lifting your chest off the board this will help.

3. increased tail rocker will make the board pivot more on turns. I personally like this aspect of noseriders.

I hope this makes sense.

T

P.S. Use the biggest fin you can find. I like pivot fins.