ok,im looking for a milling bit to fit a router,the bit has to be about 6inches (4 inch min) long.
any ideas where from,not bothered how much.
why?
for cutting the shape drawn onto a blank.
I doubt you’ll find a 6" bit, the reason? they become unstable at router speed and get into end whip, A 20,00 RPM grenade in your hands. 4" cutter length is max, with collet length added on, the answer. skin the blank first to elliminate the extra thickness, then router cut from there
cutting with a shorter range is not the end of the world .
contary ,the genisis -a straight clean bottom template is a good start.
that perfect vertical for two inches can positivly be complimented by a scudy dis reputable top half cut which can be evened out with that stellar beauty coming up from the bottom.
any consolation? the top turn on the rail often curves down to meet the perfect zone at the mason dixon line…ambrose… our poor country crying when no one can see
hey sippy, i use a 8mm drill. works perfect
For the sake of safety I’ve got to second Jim’s warning about the grenade in the hand. Bits longer than a few inches spinning at the high speed of a router can fly apart and turn body parts to confetti. I’ve seen it. In the woodworking world they say it’s a matter of when, not if, when it comes to losing fingers or even sight. I’m blessed to be 30+ years around spinning sharp monsters and still paddle out with all digits intact. Use Ambros’ method or the trusty old fashion saw method (quiet, peaceful, safe). Enjoy the ride.
Use a re-ostat speed control on the router, slow it down to 1000-5000 rpms. Use a 1/2 inch hi helux 4 inch mill end, or a 1/2 dia 5 inch high speed carbide drill bit. you can also use one of those 1/4 in multi directional cutting bits (Eager Beaver?)
The key is slowing down the router.
-Jay
Good idea so long as there’s no “oops, I forgot the reastat deal”. Experience is everything. Just trying to be over cautious for the sake of any young first-timers at using power tools who might read this post and jump into a danger.
well,
i forgot the rpm’s a router operates at,30k is quite a few indeed and i already know from years of aeromodeling what sharp tools and rotateing propeler blades (as high as 40k rpm/3bhp ) can do to ones extremities.id say ive been lucky with sharp things,but you cant over stress the safty issue too much.
i think ill try a 1/2" drill bit 2 - 3" long.
ambrose’s method sounds good,all im trying to do is eliminate the pain in the ass bit of hand sawing and sanding the resulting mess to some sort of squareness.
thanks again for the info
I bought a router today. While shopping, I noticed they had some models with variable speed. I didn’t check what the range was since I didn’t want that feature but I assume they can go slower than the typical 30K rpm.
Maybe they could safely be used with a 6" drill bit? It shouldn’t take much at all to cut through foam.
thanx kenz,ive had a breif shufty…just gotta see if theres somewhere local to get these things from
Please heed all the safety warnings given - I have a dear friend, a tremendous craftsman who was distracted for a minute and is missing two fingers. I always practice: If you hear machinery running wait until it stops to knock, open, or to talk."
Back to topic: I think you can get a clear view of about a 4" router bit used to cut the outline in the Harbour shaping demo video with Tim Stamps. Is that outta the question?
slaps forehead in a totaly ‘doh’ way…
i had the answer all along: A SLOT DRILL(aka end mill)
thats the rule in all workshops…wait till the cut ends & dont stop the cut(unless its gone wrong).
i think i saw the slot drill in a vid called ‘land of saints’ (filmed,produced,music and stars cornish surfers(and tom curren)),if it wasnt that vid,i remember seeing some1 cutting the butt crack of a fish with one.
i aint got a router as yet,but ill make sure when i do get one its got vari speed.