Last night was awesome! I caught some waves after work. I then met up with my friends and went to a surf movie premiere at this movie theatre where they serve food and beverages. Tony from WBlivesurf.com put on the event and it was super fun as always. we watched drive thru south africa, which was pretty entertaining (anything with J bay footage is entertaining in my estimation). I ate 23 chicken wings by myself and was a very very happy man. (All this background crap is furnished with a mind toward sharing the stoke.)
Tony always does a raffle at these movie premieres and gives away hats, tshirts, board bags, and other wave riding accoutrements. Occassionally, he will raffle off a big ticket item like a board. I never win anything at these raffles so I had planned on not buying a ticket. However, when I arrived at the show, what do I see leaning against the wall up in the up for grabs position? A 6’2’’ x 19 1/4’’ MR twin fin. It’s one of the modern ones. It’s airbrushed green and yellow. No signature on the stringer so possibly ghost shaped. I think I read something about the new MRs being made by biolos? Anyway, on the nose of this thing, in black permanent marker it says: “Life is short. Don’t Waste it. Go Surfing! Best wishes, Mark Richards.” Can I get a “hell yeah”?
So naturally I buy a ticket or 6. People are buying tons of tickets. It was a super crowded event. I figured that maybe I’d get a Tshirt or something. The movie ended and I was busily cleaning up hot sauce with my moist towelette as they began calling ticket numbers. People were going down front a picking up hats and Ts and pictures. Finally, the moment of truth, the grand prize drawing. I remember thinking to myself: ‘someone is going to win that board–that is epic!’ I was truly excited by the idea that anyone was going to get to leave with it under their arm and I was getting stoked up for the lucky one. Tony called out the number–696. There was a pause. 696–wait a minute. I looked down at my ticket–696. YESSS!!! I stood up in disbelief. I tried to preserve a modicum of dignity as I walked down the aisle to collect the board by keeping the fist pumping and heel clicking to a minimum. All my buddies were groaning saying: the guy who can make his own boards wins the board?
The whole situation was epic. All my friends and acquantainces in attendance good naturedly informed me that I am a dick. All the grommies were frothing and swarming around asking: “Are you going to ride it? Are you going to ride it?”;
and that, rachel and gentlemen, is the question.
The board was oringinally donated to a charity auction benefiting a family in medical and financial crisis. It sold alongside AI and slater autographed boards. It fetched 1600 dollars and the bidder gratuitously gave the board back so it might raise more money (that is sweet, huh). Tony explained he felt the board should be given away, hence raffling it. The whole affair is quite soulful, if I may say so. It is in mint condition, never ridden nor waxed. The glass job feels pretty dang light. The dims are perfect for me. I could care less how much it is worth in dollar terms as I would never sell it or part with it (except, I suppose, for charitable purposes). I’ve never really liked the idea of a wall hanger, but …; I want to ride it so bad. I think Mark would tell me to ride it. Still, I’m leaning toward wall hanger status. Maybe in my office.
A wise man seeks counsel. What better place than Sways? Any thoughts, encouragment, or reproof will be appreciated.
thanks for reading.
hunter