is it the adrenaline? state of mind wile in her body? childhood impression of being in the womb? having fun, in a place we don’t belong? i cant figure it out …why is all we think about is surf and waves… i am miserable if i go to work because i might be missing something…i must be there, where its good, even if i have to drive 150 miles, i need to be there …what am i missing? drive drive …i put 28k on in car on kauai in 7 months…i need to work but tomorrows forecast look good again…crap im addicted… is it the saratonein…will it get better as i age …i think i have a problem… im in debt up to my ears because work’n for the man sucks…whats the addiction…i think i need help… anyone else in my boat of passion…
here is my theory i am by no means a physcologist but here is my two cents
humans love being in beauty. the ocean and waves are a beautiful place, women are beautiful, and to some men are beautiful. but anyway, we love to connect to this beauty, wether it is creating it like an artist or a sculptor does or wether it is hiking and being surrounded by the natural beauty or even hang around beautiful people(not just on the outside keep in mind). we love being involved with beauty and there are very few things more beautiful than a barrel
Yeah, I’m in the same boat, and have been for years. I work a little and surf a lot. Work is to surfing as oil is to water; they just don’t mix in our case. You ask if it gets better with age and I’m sorry but it doesn’t. The older I get, the more surfing has played a significant accumulative role in my life. To really feel and enjoy the surfing experience and lifestyle, frequent participation is a must, so, surfing just once in a while will not be enough to achieve the surfing buzz we would all like to acquire. Anyway, at the end of my life. I will look back and probably realize that I have not accomplished much in the material world, but have had a life that is rich in participating in an activity that has shaped me to be who I am, a Surfer.
I was addicted the first time I stood on a board and slid along the water pushed by a wave. I body surfed and rode a mat a lot, and riding the waves that way is also a lot of fun.
But the sensation of standing up, balancing, and riding along an ocean wave, indescribable.
My addiction led me to making boards for a living, and travelling, meeting people, going to new places, having fun. No material gain, but lots of personal challeges fulfilled.
I also cannot keep a steady job if it’s withing reach of a beach. Even small sloppy waves will drag me away from work.
Now being so far from the ocean, I can put my mind into other things, things I never did, never wanted to do and never thought I would do, simply because the attraction, thrill and challenge of riding waves, although not gone by any means, is far enough away not to tempt me.
As a side note, I’m preparing my wife for the day we hit the coast somewhere. She is quite aware of my addiction, and is willing to help me in any way she can.
Avoidance and alternatives to the addiction are just temporary. My mind surfs all the time, and just that alone can keep me happy…for now.
I started surfing in the mid seventies at 10 years old. I have had it in my blood since. I also ride Dirt Bikes and that has been in my blood equally since also. I’ve had the conversation with friends that ride and surf and we all agree that if given perfect conditions SURFING wins. Everybody has different ideas what a perfect day is though…
The thing about surfing is its not always perfect. Its ALWAYS perfect to go trail riding in Hawaii’s back mountains. Rain or shine doesn’t matter, its always perfect. I cut a lot of the trails above the North Shore and I ride with many well known surfers and we all agree on that to. The rush of riding is constant. Obstacles that require total focus are coming at you for hours. You need to be IN THE MOMENT for long periods on end. Its like one loooooong wave that lasts all day. A neat thing about riding trails is the more the merrier. The trails are soooo gnarly and tough in Hawaii that we are always happy to see others come out to ride. Did you know Hawaii has the best, most challenging trails on the Planet? Just like the North Shore is the proving grounds of surfing the trails are the same. I’ve even taken Malcom Smith riding here if any of you know who that is… A LOT of surfers ride trails here in Hawaii. Even Bill Barnfield knows this right Bill? BUT, if given the perfect conditions, SURFING STILL WINS. Plus, the mountains are ALWAYS there.
Surfing is clean and simple. Grab your board and go. Surfing has the same kind of IN THE MOMENT high. Especially when the waves are big for you. Total focus, adrenaline, peace, anxiousness, fear, sheer joy, beauty etc. Tony Moniz once told me the total focus of the moment is what makes him ride trails and surf. I agree 100%. Heck, I even love to body surf. Get some gaping barrels and its just so pure… Surfing is addicting because it lets you escape from reality to a dream state for a few hours a day or week or whatever. It re-charges your batteries and gives you something to look forward to. If you’re into it like us, then it will be a lifetime passion. I took a long break from it to focus on riding and getting my finances together for my family but I always thought about it. I always got in the water at least a few times to keep my gills wet though… Now, its every day baby! I’m even into the shaping side too!! Buwahahahahaha!!!
Totally random – No back up with any specific trial studies… Just a theory
Using an Operant Conditioning Model of scheduled reinforcements; the act of surfing is rewarded with pleasure(fun, adrenaline, etc.) Bascially, once you start having fun surfing you are conditioned to feeling pleasure and will continue to seek out the activity which gives you pleasure (Hedonistic Model - more pleasure and less pain). However, surfing isn’t always the same. Therefore you get a random schedule of reinforcements, much like gambling. Therefore you will tell yourself “one more wave” in order to recieve a large reward (good ride) then the next thing you notice you’re still saying “Just a few more”