Adding Weight to an EPS board

I am shaping myself a noserider now, and would like to add a bit of weight to it. I have made a few longboards, one for myself and a couple for friends so far, and they do feel lighter than the PU/poly boards in the shops. I have used a glass schedule of: 6 bottom, 6x6 top with a full deck patch of 4oz on the few done so far.(this is on 2lb EPS) They have all been enjoyed and seem fairly tough, but one of my friends rented a poly LB on a trip to Costa and said that he felt, and enjoyed, the difference in weight. He said the difference in glide was quite noticeable, and a nice feeling. I’ve only ridden my EPS boards.

What schedule are some folks out there using for some heavier boards?

I am not shooting for a real old school weight, like 20-30 lbs, just to add to the glide a bit.

My idea so far, is to go : 6/4 bottom, 6x6x4 top with a 6oz deck patch for knee paddling. I have also made the blank with 3 stringers, bass 5/16" and 2x cedar 3/16" and am planning to do nose/tail blocks and a glasson wood fin.


I’m also wondering how to do the glassing. I have access to some 6oz cloth from a local supplier that is made without the chromium sizing. It is supposed to be more eco friendly because of it, but it has a greenish tint to it, which is not so good for the repairs that my friend bought it for. I think that it will work perfectly for my LB to give it the volan/coke bottle look though. I am just wondering on how to schedule the layers. Do I do the cutlaps first? 6 bottom, then 6+patch top, then go back and do the E-glass 4 bottom and the 6x6 top? Or could I do the 6 and 4 on the bottom at the same time? Would the cutlap left from that be too thick to then do the top cutlap over? followed by the e-glass after.

Added glass would certainly add weight and strength but one thing nice about a light longboard is being able to carry it up and down trails to the beach.  The older you get, the more you appreciate an easy carry. 

I've been tossing around an idea with a friend of mine... PVC tubes inside the blank with exposed caps recessed in the deck that can be removed for filling the tubes with water. 

The idea is to have a light board to carry but you could add some water weight before actually riding.  Empty it when finsihed to have a light board again for the hike up.



Heh. A surfboard with ballast tanks. Now that is an idea!



Why don't you build a board with PU to get the wait and feel of PU?


How do you prevent the water from sloshing back and forth inside the board?  Seems like the tubes would have to be completely full to prevent sloshing or completely empty.  Or, a valve system similar what is in your veins.  Where's the engineers???  Mike

I’m with Rooster…use 3# EPS or just go PU.

I don’t like light boards for anything other than carrying.

and/or kick it up to 8oz top and bottom with a 6oz patch…

Use a heavier (thicker) stringer? Or 3 stringers or …

You can add a lot of weight with the stringer!


adding more glass can get expensive with epoxy.

I’m with the others - heavier foam.   I saw an EPS longboard a couple weeks ago with 4# foam and some extra glass, and it was not an particularly heavy board when considering the owner is 230#.   

Hi Mike -

Curiously enough, Mike Hynson has glassed partially filled tubes within boards to obtain that sloshing effect.  It has something to do with weight shift inside the board but other than that, I'm vague on details.

I've wanted to try some PU blanks for a while now. The cost is an issue though. To get a box with a longboard blank shipped to me will cost about 250$. I could have it shipped to a depot across the border for 130$, but then I have to borrow/rent a vehicle that can carry a 10' box full of blanks, and I will still have to pay more coming through the border. .. Canadian customs charge tax not only on the items price, but even on the shipping cost within the US !!      Shortboards are a lot cheaper so I still might get to shape some PU, but  for a log, it means a high cost.

As for the EPS Afoaf, the local company I get it from doesn't make 3#  .... I'd have to check again, they may make 2.5#, but am not sure of that.

I guess the extra stringers and nose/tail blocks should add a few pounds to it. The extra glass is an idea, but as mentioned, with epoxy it does cost a lot more in resin.