I’ve used AKU Shaper for about 4yr or so and have gotten pretty familiar with it. I use the program to “see” just about every board I shape, and will use the “print outline” features to create a template when I don’t already have anything that’s close. Technically, the 3D function that was added a couple of years ago was a big help to me in keeping the lines fluent and flowing. I’ve even taught myself to do concaves. What I haven’t learned is how to use the “machine” and “machine parameters” tabs. I know this is used to set or orient the blank in the CNC machine, but are these parameters the machinist sets or the designer? I’m eager to have a blank machined just for the experience of it, but I want to understand this aspect of the program before submitting a file to be cut.
Please don’t respond with a diatribe on the ills of machine shaping or scold me for attempting a machine shape before shaping a gazillion boards with a handplane and surform. I ‘m really not interested in debating either position. I doubt that there exists any arguments, pro or con, that haven’t already been documented on this site. However, I am interested in learning more about AKU Shaper, so I welcome any and all tips, lessons, “nuggets” in this regard.
The machine paramaters are used to place the blank you have chosen onto the vertical struts and tailstop. This information is based on the size of the blank, and where the tail stop is placed. The tail stop is based on the distance from the cutter, and is also part of the relationship between the two vertical struts. Where the screen talkes about what blank you are going to use, you would need to map in the rocker and thickness of the blank, and save that file as a X' X" (mfg name) blank. Select that file and you will have an outline of the mapped blank on the "machine" screen. You then superipose your desigh over to mapped in blank, and adjust the orentation so the design fits into the blank.
The other thing that is helpful, is to type the letter "T" onto one of your slices, and this allows you to see what the tool paths look like. Now press the letter "A", and you will see the cutter, based on the information on the machine screen. You can do the same for the bottom of the board. Adjust the top angle cuts to 75 dergees then look at the tool paths and cutter, then change it to say 125 degrees and look again at the tool paths and cutter... This is handy when doing large concaves or footwells in SUP's.
I could go on and on...but these are a few features to play with. If your interested in more, or specific features, PM me...
ken
Thanks Ken, that helps a lot. When you say "map in the rocker and thickness of the blank" do you mean create a .brd file using the outline and the rocker profile of the blank I intend to use? I plan on using a US Blanks 98Y +3/8T18 blank for a 9-4 to 9-6 noserider. I could create a .brd file of this blank by "scraping" the outline and rocker profile from the US Blanks catalog PDF, and converting them to .jpg. I'd use the catalog outline JPG as the "image board" for the outline, adjusting for correct length and width.Then I'd use the catalog rocker profile JPG as the image board for the rocker profile. I'd have to adjust the tail rocker by placing a "guide" on the bottom at 18" up from the tail and then use the tail rocker handle on the "bottom" view to add 3/8" in the last 18". (the "guide" would help me maintain the natural rocker from the 18" mark to the tip) Then save the file naming it "98Y38T18.brd" (correct filename?). Is that a workable approach? A little work, but once created its done and I probably only use a half-dozen different blanks. I know US Blanks will supply a .s3d of their blanks upon request, but can Shape3D files be used in AKU? Thanks again for your help. -thomas
When I refer to mapping in a blank, that means, like you said, design the blank using the rocker and thickness flow. To do that you should put the blank on a flat surface, block the nose and tail so it doesn't teater, and measure the distance from the flat surface to the bottom of the stringer. You should do this several times from the nose and tail. Don't use the numbers provded by the mfg...they are often off by as much as 2 inches! I found that out the hard way! Take those measurements and insert them into the "Guide Points" spread sheet, and once the information is entered, use the "enter" button, and this will create a + mark at the location on the outline, deck, or bottom rocker, depending on what your measuring. The same can be done for mapping in an existing board for concaves and vee's. Also can be done on the rails, but takes a little more time and effort. To use Shape3D, you need to remove the encriprtson, by first opening the shape3d in Board Cad, then save it as a AKU brd. file. I do that all the time...
where are you located???
ken
Great info! I hadn't thought about entering coordinates directly into the the guide point spreadsheet. I usually place the mark directly on the drawing then use the the spreadsheet to fine tune the coordinates. I'm thinking every 6" should do it for rocker measurements and then use my calipers to measure thickness at the same interval and stick those into the guide points spread sheet for the "top" as well. I've also had experience with "unexpected" rocker values in a new blank, especially if rocker adjustments have been ordered. I always check the blank's rocker numbers before starting a shape. Great tip on the s3d-to-bcad-to-brd file conversion. I was going to surf this morning but I think I'll do some measuring instead. I live in Oceanside, just down the 76 from KKL. -thomas
Tomas...
I think you got it! If your interested, you are more than welcome to come up to my shop, and we can cut your board. Watching the file cut for the first time is interesting. I am in Colton...not all that far from Oceanside...
ken
I’ve never adjusted the machine parameters myself, mainly out of fear that it will do something to the machine. Never had any problems with leaving said adjustments alone either.