I was talking with one of my shapers and wants me to do some boards for his personal use. The question is he wants his deck lam to be 2.5oz + 4oz + 2.5oz. The 2.5 is an aircraft grade glass which he says won’t lam normally because of the tightness of the weave. I’ve never worked with this glass before and would like any feedback from those that have worked with it. He says this glass schedule gives the board lots of flex and the deck is basically bulletproof.Aloha, Kokua
I’ve used ultra thin, ultra tight glass including “peel ply” in aircraft tooling, using epoxy. we always wet out the cloth with the resin below it. example if glass this way for surfboards: pour resin on the foam, lay glass, squeegee resin through cloth, excess is soaked up with next layer of glass, dig?
Used the 2.5 stuff alot and like JR said wet underneath for good saturation but that bulletproof stuff??? don’t know about that-an old friend of mine saw it at my shop and said Jack Reeves uses it as a bottom layer on all his balsa and extra wood stuff–tried it once with a pigment splash -won’t be doing that again --all I know oh yea works well on Surf-tech repairs
Helo Kokua and my old Bud C.D.B.I tried some of this stuff and like you guys said you had to wet out underneath it.The problem was it was not bulletproof and the deck seemed to delaminate easier.I was thinking that maybe it would work better sandwiched in the middle of the glass schedule rather than the first layer.I dunno,maybe it was different glass or something and I was using polyester on a Clark Super Green blank.Maybe you should try a scrap on a piece of foam,it seemed as if the light glass didn’t want to bond as well.Just a thought. R.B.
…You’re asking for it.As clean stated, sandwich it 1 layer of 2.5oz between 2 layers of 4oz?..6oz would be better.If you don’t sandwich it and decide to leave it on the top, hotcoat it thick ,because if you hit the weave in the 2oz job it will fray and not cut properly.GOOD LUCK! …Better to vac.bag it,and it’s far from bullet proof.If the aircraft glass has a kink in it or a fold you’ll never get it out.HOPING FOR THE BEST FOR YA.Herb
Agreed, it’s a wrinkle fest. knew a guy who lammed all the boards he did by applying resin first, then the glass. He ended up moving the glass around way less. I’ve also had good results doing “dry patches”. Lam one layer, let it go off, then lam next layer. No excess resin between layers. Gives a nice tight lam, and strong too. No good for production though.
Howzit advanced class, After getting a by yard price from F.H.( $4.50 ) I decided to shine it and talked the shaper into letting me just do one of my super-lite-super-strong glass jobs. Thanks for letting me pick your brains, Mahalo to you all,Kokua
Kokua Dude, I have used this cloth with some ding repair( Broken boards ) I gave it a good try a couple times but found it dosen’t wet out very easy and bunches up, also leaves lots of weave after sanding. that was with polyester resin, epoxy might be the ticket! One layer of 2.5 and epoxy resin, light!! . I think hawaiian blades has used some, call them ?? Aloha Willdog, Have a great surf! Clyde Rodgers http://www.edgefins.kauaistyle.com
Howzit Clyde, Yeah Blades has a roll that Ian bought for his personal boards. He has had them use a glassing schedule of 2.5oz + 4oz kick that off then another layer of 2.5oz . I think I’ll just let Jim hassle with it. Aloha. Wildog
The way I’ve laminated with it is to wet under the glass. I’ve done it numerous ways but the way I like best is to lift the glass on one side, folding one side on the other along the stringer, wet that half and fold the cloth down, then lift the other side and wet the foam and fold that side down. I’ve done some satin and crowsfoot weaves the same way. That cloth, even though its light, doesn’t lap well so use a lot of releif cuts around the nose and tail. Good luck. I, of course, would suggest using epoxy so you can have more work time.