After a few weeks of junk, and havinf to drive home without getting wet, due to tiny/terrible waves, i had an awesome surf this morning, and actually the the other day as well. Was beginning to get bummed about winter coming up, but, wow, it’;s amazing what a good surf can do. For some reason the past 2 surfs, the waves just seemed to come to me, and i surfed them about as good as i ever will. It’s pretty rare for me to get both, i’ll get really good waves, but surf ok, or surf great in crap waves, but, the last 2 surfs have been magic. Late drops on steep, fast breaking waves, face pretty close to the wave face. Love it when it all comes together. On one 5’er i timed my top turn perfect, turned just underneath the feathering lip, and absolutely flew back down the face so fast it felt like only the last 12’’ of my board was in the water, i even held onto to bank it right over into another bottom turn. My fish handled the late drops beautifully, and while plenty of guys were 5 metres further out than me, i could see they were struggling. I dont know why they do it, i catch 3 times as many waves sitting in further a bit. Anyway, just sharing the stoke, and loving my little home made twin keel.
Hey Beerfan
Its amazing how a good session can change your mood.
I went to have a look at the farm yesterday and it looked a little bigger than it has been.
Didn’t take my board though, still recovering from a 50th birthday party the night before.
2 weeks ago, I had 6 days off and surfed 5 of those, all at the farm.
The biggest day I had was only waist high but my longboard loves that size.
Was the happiest 6 days I have had in a long time.
Cheers
Yeah it sure does put you in a good mood!. The farm hey, haven’t been there since the “new” carpark has been there. How much more crowded is it?
Its not too bad.
More crowded than usual on weekend.
And being the warmer season.
It also seems to be holiday season a lot lately too.
But now, you park your car, walk about 15 meters and your in the water.
Paddle out in the channel, and start riding.
I have now caught 3 wave in the time it used to take me just to get to the water.
But I am a shift worker, and rearly go there at busy times, unless its really good.
Also, the cooler months are coming and you only get the die hards surfing then.
Cheers