Another balsa egg compsand

General Discussion
1

Hello All,

After a lot of swaylocks post reading, and some hard working days, i have ready-to-glass my first eps/balsa compsand board. The process itself has gone ok, but i made some mistakes that will not be repeated in my next. I think that although you have everything planned, always happens something unexpected that makes change the plans. Is something that goes bound to our condition of amateurs?

Thanks for all of you who make swaylocks a reference point in shaping world and especially for the people who post these small tricks that make things easier.

The board is 100% homemade, starting from the homedepot EPS (15 Kg/m3) to the vacuum pump (old fridge pump).

For the lovers of numbers:

  • Board dimensions: EGG 6’8 x 21 5/8 x 2 7/8. Flat bottom. Want to ride it in small surfing days in the basque country beach breaks.

  • 15 Kg/m3 EPS (#2?)

  • 2 mm balsa sheets for the deck and bottom

  • 2 strips of 5mm + 1 strip of 2 mm balsa for laps

  • 4oz glass fiber between EPS/balsa

  • 30mm balsa sheet for nose and tail blocks

Excuse me for:

  • The picture quality -all of them are taken with my cellular…-.

  • The international metric units.

  • My poor english.

If you are interested, i can post all the process pictures.

The finished board:

One question about glassing, 6oz on deck and 4oz on bottom or 4oz/4oz?

Thanks,

sUgOi

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2

Looks nice man!

Yeah show more pictures if you got 'em!

I’d go for 6 oz glass but that’s a matter of preference I guess. Alot of guys use the 4 oz on lightweight compsands. I think slightly heavier glassing, maybe even a deck patch will help the strength of your board and only add a little weight, it’s already super light…

-15kg/m3 is 0.93 pounds per cubic foot so it is #1 eps approx…

Have you thought about fins?

3

very nice

i use 6 oz each side, which makes for 12 on the rails

that gives a great deal more ding protection

even glass 3 oz over balsa wont pressure dent

but a good 6 oz glass job using a good amount of resin means a good seal and durability

means if you love the board(i think you will)it will last a good deal longer for you to enjoy

nothing sadder then having a majic board die on you

4

beautiful board! Yes, please show more pictures of the process.

5

sUgOi looks great

please post more pics and …

—< “i made some mistakes that will not be repeated in my next” >—

can you expand on some of the lessons learned?

—< “- 15 Kg/m3 EPS (#2?)” >—

I think this would be #1 EPS. What weight was/is your inner glass?

and how about the rail technique and thickness?

6

Silly,

—< “which makes for 12 on the rails” >—

with 12oz wrapping (2x6oz overlapped) the rails you are still getting the flex characteristics that you want?

I would have thought that would have made to composite rigid and thus weaker. What are you using for inner glass wieght?

thanks

7

OK, the process pics. Lets start the journal. I will explain some “tricks” that i have use. Most of these tricks have been extracted from the database of knowledge of this forum… :wink:

The EPS blocks: 2x1x0,06 m

I join the two blocks with white glue (we said it here “carpenter glue”). No problems after with the hot-wire.

Rail profiles ready for hot-wiring.

TRICKS:

  • Put tape along the rail perimeter to best flowing of the wire.

  • Use the other side of the rail template to get a correct positioning in the foam.



8

Sorry, not pics hot-wiring, but here you have one of the arc:

And the result of the cut. Need to be sanded to let the surface flat.

TRICKS:

  • Get the wire as tense as you can without broking it, of course. As more tense, less waves on the surface.

  • In the past i use a guitar string, but now i use a 0,5mm stainless steel wire, bought in a fishing shop. Works better.


9

OK, time to play with the balsa. Make a balsa surface equal to my eps length/width and get all the sheets together with some paper masking tape. The masking tape will go in the inside.

The pump. Old fridge pump, with a little reservoir (1 liter canteen), who will run continuously. To prevent pump heating, i put a little ventilator impelling air.

And the foam just in the bag (in the pic without pressure yet).

TRICKS:

  • Get a look for holes in the bag. I have to use masking tape to close them.

  • To accelerate the process os vacuuming, use a vacuum cleaner to get the air out of the bag. Then connect the fridge pump.



10

OK, the board out of the bag:

After cut of the outline:

These rails have to be sanded… you can see the glue line…



11

For me the most tedious part of the process.

First layer:

Result after some hours:

TRICKS:

  • I will not use 5mm balsa sheets again. Not a lot of flexibility. I think 3mm balsa (4 x 3mm) will be the best option for this operation.

  • Use the rails cuts to make pressure against the rails. Really useful.

  • The next time i will make a pre-shape of the rails to glue less wood -and easier- to the foam.


12

The result:

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I added an aditional layer of 2mm balsa to get 1’2cm in total.

After it, time to use -what is the name of this tool?- to get flat the intersection of the bottom with the rails.

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Surform make the shape easily. Shaping the first bevel.

And the result

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15

OK, after the shape of second and third bevels, this is the result.

View from the nose:

And from the tail:

Hey, sure surfboard shaping? :wink:



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Its time to put the deck balsa skin. The same procedure used with the bottom:

1.- make a balsa sheets puzzle

2.- put masking tape to get the sheets all together

3.- Cut the outline of the board with a cutter (the balsa is really soft).

4.- Get 4oz fibre in epoxy and lay on top of the balsa.

5.- Flip the balsa with epoxy over the surfboard.

6.- 12 hours to the bag at -0,3 / -0,4 bars.

In the bag:


17

Get the surfboard out the bag, and OH! the pressure has sunk slightly the balsa in the bag connector zone. TRICK: NEVER PUT THE CONNECTOR OVER THE BALSA. Now have to fill the “hole” with a wood repair paste…

18

Is not difficult and looks great! The process:

1.- Cut the balsa/foam with the dessired form.

2.- Make a piece of balsa to cover the cut.

3.- Glue the block in the balsa/foam with 5 mins epoxy (works really good).

4.- Shape it!

After the shape:


19

OK, thats all. Now takes glassing. I will update the post with the final result.

About the fins: i would like to put a glass-on single fin. Working on it. I will post pics and sizes to take your opinion.

Thanks again,

sUgOi

20

sUgOi, this is a great thread. Your photos are fine - never mind the photo quality, you took them at all the important times & places :slight_smile:

Very well done.