Another question....

Thanks for letting me pick yer guy’s brains. I appreciate all the help. This is the greatest reference I have found on the internet! I have spent several hours at different factorys hanging out to learn what I can. Unfortunately, I am attending college at the moment and cant spend as long as I would like at the factory. Being able to ask questions here saves alot of “Trial and Error” time if yah get my drift. Its hard to express how great and idea this is and I hope that one day I will be able to be the one helping. Ok enough rambling, now for the question part. I bought some water based paint pens. I did a blotch test with them and they bleed. Before I had thought about doing the blotch test however, I had used them on the back tail section on the deck. Nothing that major but if it can be saved I would like to. Are there any secret techniques other than remembering to blotch test before?! Doh! I’m going to sand a portion. I don’t want to mess up the shape and I think the pen line might be to deep in the blank. Anyway, thanks for the help! -Jeff-

I would use a knife to cut out the bled-on foam and replace it with lightweight exterior spackling paste. Use as little spackle as possible, and dry the spackle thoroughly before working it. Someday I’ll build a whole spackle board. Names?

Names, Noodle?..“Made for WALLS”!!! (aka - aka !) T. (sorry, eh!).

Spackstix- for the Lost generation. Sorry, it’s the best I can do this early. TS>>> I would use a knife to cut out the bled-on foam and replace it with > lightweight exterior spackling paste. Use as little spackle as possible, > and dry the spackle thoroughly before working it.>>> Someday I’ll build a whole spackle board. Names?

SpackTech

Your bleed is very common, you could lightly sand the edges, depending on how much you are into doing tedious, sensitive work. I usually take a small piece of wood and blotch the paint pen on the wood and then use the wood as a painter’s pallete. Most paint pens have a ball bearing in them and the tip will depress into the pen to pick up the paint. I will push the pen tip on the wood and it will leave a little puddle of paint I then use this puddle for my paint source,not the contents of the pen. The reason being I can get good paint coverage on the pen tip which enables me to put lines or whatever on the blank with little to no pressure. With the foam you are always going to have some bleed, but by limiting the pressure of the paint pen you can control or compensate for the bleed. Go light and come back to it. Practice on a foam piece from your shaping. You may or may not like this technique. You can also use thicker acrylic paint and a brush. The thicker paint won’t bleed because of its consistency, but you have to be careful, because you don’t want the paint to build up and create a texture on your blank. This will be a pain the ass when it comes to lamination. This process also takes much longer. Another suggestion would be to just glass the board as is, and once you are done sanding and fine sanding, clean it up and then use your pens on top of your hotcoat to cover up what you have done on the foam. You won’t have to worry about bleed and can draw whatever you want. Once your done, spray it with a clear coat. Clear acrylic etc. I am sure you have seen this on Lost boards. Any board done like this you can tell by lightly touching the artwork and you will feel a slight texture to it. I have done pen work like this and not even sealed it and it will last quite a while. When it gets rubbed off just draw back over it, or don’t whatever. Hopes this helps. Oh yeah you could also get a pin line tool mentioned before on the BB. It has a small roller feed by a resevior. The good ones will cost you some money but they work well.