I am experimenting with the aps3000 program just to get some template ideas, but I’m not sure how to design different tail shapes, i.e. square/pin/swallow/etc. Could someone familiar with this program explain the steps to me. I’m trying to design a square tail on a 7’6" funboard, but the generic template has a rounded pin and I’m not sure how to alter it.
it’s tough to describe, but you’ll have to remove some of the squares that control angle that are attached to the positioning squares. just keep playing with it…you’ll get it.
on the top tool bar there is a button that says “add point” use that to put more blue squares on your outline. and use the button below the scissors in the point control zone to make the point non continuos
does anyone know how to put a picture into the background? ive seen it done… but don’t know how
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does anyone know how to put a picture into the background? ive seen it done… but don’t know how
Bert knows how, and he was able to get accuracy down to 1/16 of an inch. amazing if you ask me, nice innovation.
check the thread cad vs reality, he explains it there.
jimmy
Please could someone tell me how to take a ‘screen shot’?
Shift+PrintScreen takes the screen shot. now the image is stored on your clipboard. go into a graphics program (like Paint), and press CTRL+V to paste the screenshot onto the workspace (or you can select “paste” from the “edit” menu). and there’s your screen shot…save it, print it, whatever you want to do with it.
Can you print out the rocker outline?
Sorry no full size rocker print out yet at this point.
You can go to File → print and then print out slices, we have also just added a fully pdf summary page. Good for the boys who want a summary who want to use the print out for their board orders .
We’ll give some thought to the full board printout has some you have mentioned that you have access to full blown plotters, but we’ve got a few other things cooking right now.
Jimmy
APS3000
This image importation feature will be coming soon. It’s in beta testing phase right now.
We might need some help testing the bugs, I’ll maybe post the link for beta when we get that up and running.
Jimmy
Ok. Thanks to innovation from people like Bert, Miki and others, we’ve been able to design the image import feature.
Bascially take a picture of an outline and/or profile and then you can import into the program and design around it.
It is still in beta testing phase but if anyone sees any bugs or room for improvement we are always looking to hear those type of things.
http://www.aps3000.com/software/beta
I’m sorry I don’t have any good pictures of boards, Bert had a couple up in the Cad vs. reality thread, I think.
Miki is working on perhaps a tutorial on best how to optimally take the pictures and stuff for that.
Anyway thanks for any potential feedback.
Thanks
Jimmy
jimmy …
this is just to easy now …after your last piece of advice i worked out how to use the guide points corectly …
using the jpg is way faster than measuring the board ,loading guide points , then you still have to line up the outline to the guide points …
using the jpg is like loading 100 guide points in one go , plus it accurately shows you where to place hips and flyers and accelarated curves , all of which i had problems with using the guide points …
its so easy to load and line up the jpg now …
ive still found cutting your outline in half makes it way easier to see whats going on and to line up the image …
i tried taking the pic on a black background , its without a doubt the best colour to use …
when i got the pic in photostudio, the magic wand tool picked up the whole background in one hit , so i filled the backgound with a colour that contrasted well with the colour of the lines in the aps program , then just blocked out half the board and filled with another colour that helps making the points easier to see in aps …
seriously … the whole process after the photo was taken took 10 minutes including matching up the outline in aps …
takes me 4 times that long to measure a board , load points and then line the outline up with the points …
in this pic i didnt even know what the nose and tail measurements were …
when i went out and measured the board , i was only 1/16 out all the way round …
my most accurate yet , this feature can constantly deliver accuracy of at least 1/8 from a digital photo …
im blown away by how quick you guys developed this and how tuned ive goten it ,from just a simple comment 5 or 6 weeks ago …
check out the 3 easy steps below …
a few people with a common goal …
amazing hey …
well done jimmy , i couldnt fault this one …
ralph !!! everyone give ralph a big pat on the back …
and well done miki for finding these guys …
not only taking the ball and running with it , but refining the ball while its still in play …
impressive …
regards
BERT
nice job Bert. for a while I did not know why you want to see only half the board even it makes kind of sense but then I got it: your boards do not have/show a stringer so you can not see the center line easily. but even when there is a stringer it makes sense.
made a few designs using the pictures and came to the conclusion that it is way more accurate than I first thought. using a 4 megapixel camera I can design extremely precise, in mm that is. the program works in imperial in 1/16 steps so you never can get better than that but if you switch to mm you will see that things get much more accurate (to 1/100th actually). we could change that in the program but not many people like measurements like 113/256 th or 1.327" .
We working on adding another set of units which will be feet and inches in decimal form.
So your board could be 2.688 inches thick instead of 2 11/16.
That should be coming pretty soon but we’ve got a few other things we’re juggling right now.
Later on
Jimmy
hey miki …
yea halving the board does help in a few ways …
gives you a clear area on one side so you can compare ghost to your job , without the extra clutter of the image board as well …
with all three lines plus the working points it can get quite cluttered …
also i was shocked to see alot of my boards werent symetrical …
the program highlighted every mistake …
so it was difficult to line the curves on both sides …
adding background colours and halving the board gives a clear working area , i did one from a photo and all the stuff in the background can really throw you …
i just realised , you dont need half covered …
just delete half and use the background colour of aps …
i only covered half the board before , because the image was so much harder to load in , before the updated version it was easier to get the image in the right spot if you didnt move it much , it always loaded in the centre …
now because its so much easier to move an image around , you can put half a board in and put it where you want …
this program is so sweet to use now …
jimmy and ralph , id love to be able to email off a dxf file ??
then i could do everything from the one program … id never have to use another program …plus both the shaping machine and the computer hotwire profiler would be running off the same co-ordinates , so i wouldnt have problems between machines …
with more and more boards being built from eps it could be a worthwhile effort some time down the track to include an exportable file feature …
playing with this program the last few months has really made my job more interesting and fun …
stoked!!!
regards
BERT
