Hello all, am planning on making an 11’ SUP in the near future. I used the APS 3000 design software to design what I think I would like to make. I’m 5’7 160# and will be using it mainly to paddle around the reefs for exercise in calm water in North San Diego. Will occasionally surf it in Waist High and below waves. I’m 38 years old and have surfed 22 years. I surf all types of boards and consider myself a decent surfer. I usually ride a Fish or Shortboad in waves above waist-chest high and a 10’ noserider in waves below. I’ve thrown around these plans to the guys who SUP at the beach I frequent and have pretty much got the thumbs up, but one of them suggested I throw it up on Swaylocks for review. So here it is, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, Especially from CARVENALU. I have 3 options for making the board: The first and most optimal would be to find someone with an APS3000 in Southern California that would be willing to cut it out. The second is that I’m pretty sure I can get an EPS Blank made with rocker and outline already cut, I would then attempt to shape the rails and bottom contours (under the watchful eyes of one of my shaping friends). Lastly, and the least desirable, would be to turn in the plans to a shaper and have them mowe it out. I will probably be glassing it. So, here are the plans, (both PDF and APS files) let me know what you think and any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Gary
Best of luck Brownfish.
Thing looks good to go IMHO.
First thing I would check is if the exact APS3000 you’re going to use can cut 28" wide. Sometimes they are just not set up for the widths… Go into the APS3000 site and e-mail them and they will lead to to the closest machine and from there you can give your design specifics or just send the file… Not everyone wants to cut these or even can…
As far as the outline and thickness goes, looks like it’ll be nice and super stable for your weight… Basing things on the wide nose something to maybe think about would be thinning out the nose/tail and adjusting your entry and tail rockers… You don’t need that kind of thickness so far up or back. To prevent slow paddling from dragging and plowing when riding the waves, pull that flat spot back another foot or so then view it in the Machine window… What you want to see is a nice transition from the nose to the flat bottom minimizing any abruptness to it… Visualize the water and chops hitting your nose in that profile and you’ll see what I mean… An example is, on a certain 10 footer I have on file, my nose rocker is 5-1/4" at the tip… It bottoms out on the flat 4’-4 1/4" from the nose… The board paddles super fast… The water doesn’t bunch up so it glides…
On the tail, same thing but no need to go so far up the board till it hits the flat bottom… You could try and blend that tail rocker height to a point say 3 to 3-1/2 feet before you hit the flat bottom… This way, when you finally do surf you can still turn and it will not affect your paddling speed… Abrupt rocker transitions in the tail seem to create drag as the water curls up behind on the wide tails… You’re looking again to visualize what the water is going to do… Looking for it to release off the tail… Shoot for seamless transitions in rocker…
I could go on and on about thickness placements, foils etc, etc, etc but then you’re board no longer is yours… Another option is forget everything I say and build you own… Think like the water moves… Build accordingly… Use the Mana of your soul! After all… My signature here says basically what I know… Would you take advice from a guy that don’t know sh*t??? Hee hee! Aloha to you Brownfish… Be happy to share what little I know…
My research says you know a little more than your signature gives you credit for, but I kinda like it. Thanks so much for your input, it’s incredibly valuable. Will make adjustments, paddle a few more boards, then hopefully start my project when I feel comfortable with what I have learned. Hopefully will be done by spring. Again, thanks for your help.
I think you should listen to CarveNalu’s design input and advice.
as we have done quite a few of these boards lately I was interested in your design. while looking at it I made some minor adjustments (see tutorial 2 in the Help menu). just slight technical corrections, no design input. check them by using the Ghost Board feature. you also should update your software.
you can get 1:1 print outs for hotwire templates if you take the pdf file to a print shop. each element there is vector based and the pro’s know how to do it.
hope you built it and have fun with it