Hi everyone! I’m thinking about an asym design and have drawn out my outline and fin placement and would like advice, opinions, etc. Big thanks to US Blanks for the 6’5". I won it with this picture in an instagram contest during the Boardroom show in Del Mar. It’ll be about 6’4" and 21" wide with a 15 3/4 tail and 14" nose. I’m around 200lbs. and 6’2".
Asymmetricals are above my pay grade, although I do find them interesting. Surprised no one has responded yet, in the mean time here’s a link to some of the great discussions on this topic from the archives, maybe you can find some useful insights to aid in your design there…
I am no expert but I have built a several. I think your outline looks good and fin placement looks good. Consider also enhancing the rocker a bit on the heel side. Which complicates the bottom contours a little but that is the fun part: experimenting.
Good luck and keep posting pictures.
all the best
Thanks guys. Great info. Huck, that link got me thinking I should add a few more boxes so i could experiment a bit. So a more drivey quad setup on my toe and a more mcKee on my heel. That should allow for a lot of options especially when i break out the knub fin and MR twin 
Greg, Thanks for getting me thinking. I hadn’t even considered changing up the rocker. Would that be more pronouncd V on the heel or something more complicated? I think my head is starting to hurt…
This looks really interesting.
Could you share the exact fin positions and the process of deciding these positions?
Looking forward to a ride report!
consider just shaping a little more lift on the heel side. for instance, if the toe side is at 2 1/4, maybe go 2 1/2 or 2/3/4 on the heel. you will notice more rocker more that you will notice minor changes in fin placement. it’s a whole new world. and a fun one, too.
all the best
Greg, I think I get ya. I’m imagining almost a bit of defined board twist from the center back. I’ll keep it very subtle though at a 1/4". I’m not sure how much that variable will affect the ride so I’ll keep it conservative.
Hans, Fin positions are all trying to get more drive on the toe and more manueverability on the heel. So toe is taking the quad theory of splitting a keel and keeping everything right on rail. The heel is more of the mcKee setup where the quad is more similar to a thruster where the trailing fin is geting closer to the center. The outline curves really compliment both of these approaches and there is a lot of “this kind of looks right”.
All the toe-in on the fins will point them to a center point about 6 inches past the nose. Toe forward fin is 1 1/4" off the rail and 11" up from the point of the pin. rear toe side is 1 1/4" off rail and 5 inches up from pin. center fin is about 1/2" off of the stringer since I’m imagining my foot closer to the toeside rail. The heel side fins are measured up from the stringer since I’m thinking that’s where the beginning effective rail starts. That amounts to a difference of half an inch. Heel side forward fin is 12" up from the stringer and 1 1/4" off the rail. Heel side rear is 5 1/2" inches up from the stringer and 1 1/2" from the rail. A true McKee would probably set that rear fin closer to the center but I’m trying to stay conservative. Once i get it into the water I’d probably ride it as a thruster or thruster with a quad on the heel. I’ll experiment with a quad heel and a MR twin in the forward toe with the knubster in the center box. Lots of options.
the ones i have done have had a twin on toe side and tight quad cluster on heel.
idea was to drive off the toe, hook tightly on the heel.
That’s what I would prefer too. More control and drive on the heel side, looser on the toe side.
The board that George Gall built for me is a thruster with a big twin on the toe side and a smaller fairly vertical fin on the heel. That board is the gold std for me. Although I have built several quads and enjoy them as well.
All the best
I love my asym! The fins play a big part in getting them to work right. My fave is a big keel on the toes with a nice loing rail line (think fish) and toed in quads on the heel side. you end up with awesome speed down the line and super tight turns in the pocket. doesnt like to be flat though, much better rail to rail.
Here’s an update. I took off the skin and brought it down to the thickness of about 2 3/4. It was just roughed out and then foiled a bit. I like to wait to cut the outline til I’ve brought the thickness down. I can draw a nice clean line off the template and the planer usually chews up the edges. I added a very small amount of twist from the center back. maybe 3/16 inch. Then i cut the outline, finished foiling and added a bit of nose flip. Then it was bottom contours. I went with more V on the heel and single into double concaves. The single is about 1/4 so that brings the overall thickness down to 2 1/2" The V ends in the last 6 inches so that the stringer looks correct on the cross-section and everything blends together. Also the concaves in the V are offset to go with how I imagine the fins being placed. Here’s some pics.
Nice one. Kind of a Ryan Burch looking shape.
Diggin’ it!
Where are you located Hang20?
Is that a dust catcher system made from 5 gallon buckets?
I’m in los angeles. I went and bought the whole dust deputy kit. I think i got it off of amazon. The kit comes with the cyclone and hoses and buckets and a few bits of hardware/wheels to connect it to the side of the shop vac and a have them roll around together. It is awesome and really keeps the garage clean… or at least as clean as its gonna get. the two buckets is for making it super easy to clean out. I hate anything dust related and always try to make the neighbors happy. In a bit I’ll show how to do my nearly dust and sanding free glass job 
Looking forward to this last bit