I glassed the board yesterday and as usual I couldn’t wait for it to cure…
The board is 7’4"x21-3/4"x3" Hybrid. I tried the board in head high Laniakea and Holtons. Waves were slow and bumpy. Good for long boarding but I was able to snag a few good ones to feel the design at work…
First off, the board paddles very good. At 21-3/4" and 3" thick its supposed to. Easy to get into waves with this thing.
Rights
1st wave was a long chest high wave with slow and fast sections. I just tried to get the feel of the sweet spot and rode it smooth with a couple short floaters over crumbling sections. The board is fast no doubt.
A couple short dead waves later I hooked into some nice head high waves that peeled. Off the bottom you can really lay into the toe side turns and like all pintails it is very smooth and easy to draw different length arcs. Off the top the board is very responsive and comes around very easy. Cut backs come easy because this thing can generate some decent speed. Easily the best sub 8’ board in my quiver.
Lefts
I paddled over to Holtons to get some lefts. All I can say is this board rips in lefts! Quick off the bottom and the arcs on the pintail side off the tops can be nice and tight how I like them. This board works good!!!
My overall rating of this board is gonna have to wait for better waves. Today it was small and I had to find sections to get the feel of what it can do. In the sections I could find, it was awesome. I think the perfect waves will be Hawaiian size 4’ to 6’ and it may handle up to 8’ if its clean but 4’ to 6’ seems to be its home.
I give it a 8 on a scale of 1 to 10 with 10 being magic. When I get it into real waves its rating may go up or down or even stay the same but till then, at worst, its a great board… So far, I’m stoked with it…
keep us updated how it goes in different conditions, eh ? [and maybe , a long time down the line , with different fin setups , too ?]
so …did it end up with a smooth or rough bottom , with the sand sticking to the uncured board ? hehehhhh
I used the Future FEA mediums. They felt good and I’ll try something else later after some good sessions… There is a double overhead solid swell coming next week and I’ll try it then. That would be 6’ Hawaiian scale. I hope its clean…
I didn’t have time to sand the board with my grinder so I hand wet sanded it to get the little burrs and tape line off. So I’d say it was semi/smooth or semi rough… Hehe.
There is a double overhead solid swell coming next week and I’ll try it then. That would be 6’ Hawaiian
sorry to hear you are only 3’ tall .
Is it the smoking ?
I 'd heard it stunts your growth .
Haha! I gave up on giving wave sizes here. Its all 2’ to me. My friends call double overhead 6’ or 6+. That’s a big plus! I feel like a whimp cause I’m not going out when they’re calling it 8’ to 10’. Its freaking macking and Haleiwa is closing out to Avalanche and those guys are starting to fire up the jet skis on what they call big…
Lets just say this, anything over my head is 2’. I only go out up to 2’! Haha! 3-4’ is life threatening to me!!!
Plenty of people have paddled into 30’ Waimea. And I say 30’ advisadly, because that’s what Buzzy Trent was calling it on a particular day in Nov. 1967. He described it as “The largest that Waimea can be ridden before it closes out”. The sight of those waves was mind blowing, but even more so was the sound. The barrels were so big that in the channel you could hear an echo as the wave collapsed farther back in the tube. It was awesome in the true meaning of the word.
