I print my logos off of my home printer. when I put them over a colored background, I usually spray the back of them with a flat krylon white acrylic. It works sometimes and other times it bleeds through to the other side. My method as of now is to print alot of logos off, and hope that I come up with enough survivors to lam onto my board.
Would applying some kind of clear acrylic to the back and letting it dry before applying white prevent this problem? I was thinking that it would act as a barrier so that the white would not leak through to the other side. Also, what clear acrylic should i use if this will work?
Howzit astevens, Are you painting the backs before or after you print the logo? Spray the back first then print the logo and see if that helps. I did thousands of logos on my ink jet and tried spraying before and after printing and found there was no bleed when spraying before I printed the logo. If you are doing a lot of colored boards and it is a pain in the okole then just pull out your wallet and pay to havesome real logos made. Face it the ink jet printed logos really only work on a clear board unless you are into the color change like a yellow logo over a blue board giving you a green logo. Another thing is to use water based paint for the back,the Krylon may be amking the problem worse. I found that when spraying the back after I did the printed loo the white would show through but not bleed and this was because of the tiny holes in the rice paper and that was why I started doing the logos after the back was painted, hope this makes sense. Aloha,Kokua
Use the heavy rice paper, the kind that doesn’t go completely transparent if normally glassed. Print on the smooth side, tape on a piece of cardboard, paint a couple of light coats on the back. Lightly sand the back to knock down any big bumps with 400.
I print the logo, then lightly spray the back of the entire page white… a few light coats, letting it dry in between. You don’t want to wet the paper, or it will crinkle. A few light coats, then cut out the logo. Works for me.
opaque inkjet logos- maybe my method might help someone. stringer and other colors beneath won’t show through but remember any spot on your logo that is ‘clear’ will become white. all the tools and steps from my trial and error, it works well for me. but I’m a backyarder so use at your own risk. nowadays I try to avoid the need for opaque logos whenever possible
highly recommend first testing on scraps (logos and laminations)
highly recommend simple logo shape
piece of glass (I use glass from a framed photo)
masking tape
heavy body titanium white (I use golden brand) acrylic in tube
squeegee wider than logo (I use 6" yellow bondo spreader)
hand dryer/heat gun
place glass on a towel on your work area
tape down logo on ricepaper as shown
squeeze out a line of paint on the tape, wider than the logo
first pull is firm, spread paint in ONE PASS, concentrate on full even coverage (flood fill)
second pull is firm again, one swipe but no new paint, remove excess
quick once over with dryer or low setting heat gun
romove sheet, leave tape on the sheet to help prevent curling, use tape to hang complte dry somewhere
flip over to do another logo
clean dried paint off glass with razor, towel off
carefully cut out your dried logo
things that can ruin your logo when you pull the paint across-
wrinkle in paper
crap on the glass, eg, scratch/dirt/speck/old paint
uneven coverage gaps in paint on the flood fill
you all have me worried. what problem are you trying to solve? I just print and laminate. Should I be sealing the back of the rice paper?
It seems to work for me. But maybe I am missing something.
And, maybe those people are following me after all. Every time I turn around they seem to look the other way. But I know they are following me. I think.
no need to seal ricepaper logos. the question is how to make your inkjet prints opaque like silk-screened ones… mainly so that the stringer or colors below do not show through.