I got a electric sander and got wild. How do I fix all the quarter moon divits I have put all over the nose and tail?
I got a electric sander and got wild. How do I fix all the quarter moon > divits I have put all over the nose and tail? Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch with glass)…Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the industry…R.B.
Fill them with hotcoat resin and redo it.(unless you hit foam if so patch > with glass)…Pro sanders and polishers are the unsung heroes of the > industry…R.B. I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do they get paid better than the glassers?
I was afraid of that, thanks. My less than pro glass job didnt help. > Sanding is the pits, only part I hate, all hail the pro sanders! Hey do > they get paid better than the glassers? The Sander a shapers best friend… Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast… Glassers make more and always have… Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you and your wrist to change direction. Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and wrist square… Put the machine infront of you not under you??? It’s a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If your good you will always have work and as a Pro… To master sanding you need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand… It all comes down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then anybody in a factory. Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a pain. Good luck… http://surfnwsc.com
The Sander a shapers best friend…>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast… Glassers make > more and always have…>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square… Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It’s a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro… To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand… It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck… Funny you should mention the sander/hotcoater tension, when I was sanding I was wondering who gets pissed at whom…sander at the lam guy for a bad glass job etc. (like my own). I was using a 5 or 6 inch soft diskit pad, the kind you got to use glue. I was over the machine not behind doing the side on which I was standing. Guess I got it all wrong on this one. Floating sander?? That must come with experience. I hope to understand that one day. I think what I was doing, looking at the nose and tail, was digging the edge when changing direction at the end of a long stroke end to end. (get it?)
The Sander a shapers best friend…>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast… Glassers make > more and always have…>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square… Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It’s a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro… To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand… It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck… Howzit Rob, couldn’t of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua
The Sander a shapers best friend…>>> Sanders can make more by the hour but you have to be fast… Glassers make > more and always have…>>> Did you use a a Power Pad to sand with?? Did you hold your sander flat > enough?? When sanding and learning how to hold the sander. You should be > able to float the pad on the flats. I mean with one hand and a slight > twist of the wrist change direction. Using the spinning pad to guild you > and your wrist to change direction. Rob: O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock’s. All that you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I’ve had learning it on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start). Tom S.>>> Always sand the oppisite side of the board as it will keep your arms and > wrist square… Put the machine infront of you not under you???>>> It’s a true art to sand i know i was a sander/polisher for many years. If > your good you will always have work and as a Pro… To master sanding you > need to fix alot of screw ups enough to see and understand… It all comes > down to a good glass job and most sanders fight with hotcoaters more then > anybody in a factory.>>> Building a board is always fun but learn to use your machines is always a > pain.>>> Good luck…
Howzit Rob, couldn’t of said it any better myself. Aloha, Kokua ,…THE BETTER/CLEANER your steps are,the better your end product will be. …Learning to sand takes time,and is a art all in it’s own,what these two guys just past onto you is priceless. …Here’s a beginner’s tip,get an old stick,garage sale,don’t pay more than 10 bucks for it,and use it as a sanding practice board.Also good for boxes,etc. …Keep at it,and…Herb
…While I held up two fingers…sheesh…Herb
I’m pretty good with power tools…But the damage a disc power sander can do to a board scares me… I believe in not doing more damage than you can fix, and a power sander can screw things up fast…I hand sand…
O.K. you are the man on sanding from here on out on Swaylock’s. All that > you have said makes sense of all of the frustrations I’ve had learning it > on my own. Kokua and others have mentioned the 400, 600, progression in > finishing for a polished gloss, using a DRY 400/600 machine finish before > compounding with SureLustre or whatever. What tips do you have for those > of us trying to master the polished gloss? (Cleanlines has already beat it > into my head that a good quality glossing resin is a place to start).>>> Tom S. OK I’m no gloss master thats for sure. I hate pin lines that is for master glossers but what ever i screw up i always seam to beable to sand out flat. It starts with a good sand job. I Grind ( plugs, laps ) with a 6000 rpm Makita grinder. Then i come back and sand with a hard Power Pad with 80 grit and the 6000 all flats deck and bottom. Then i come back with the same used 80 grit paper on a med Pad and my polisher Vir/speed at 3000 rpms and fine tune flats. After i hit all the flats i slow the machine down to about 1500 rpms and sand my rails with a lite touch from nose to tail walking the rail. After i have finshed removing all the gloss from the hot coat I hit all flats with 120 grit at a slow speed maybe about 2000 rpms. After doing my hand sanding i hit the edges again with the 120 to remove any hand sanding scratches. Now if i’m glossing i’m done. When i sand finish i will hit the board with 220 and 400. Gloss Now that i have a good sand to 120 only. I apply a mix of gloss and sanding resin ( 249a and SA ) it helps flow better and it sands and polishes better. Take your time when taping off to make for a clean tape line. You’ll see why when to buzz the rail bead. Polish Dry sand with 400 and a Med. Power Pad ( A good one )Bottom and deck. with the same paper buzz the bead of the rail don’t burn and hit cloth. When using 400 hit the edge on the tail to remove the build up on the hard edge area. When you get done make a pass slap the pad to remove any extra gloss off the pad. then i come back and and hit with 600 with a soft Pad and roll it down the rail ( less hand sanding ) to remove any tits. don’t worry about scratches on the rail. Rails polish so easy i only use 400 on my hand sand. The one trick is pull your paper ( sand ) in one direction NEVER CROSS SCRATCH or as little a you can. and in those areas just polish a little more. You can fix a real shitty gloss start with 120 or 220 then follow with 400 and 600 but always use a med or even a hard Pad to remove and sand out splits and tits. Remember when fixing a bad gloss never sand to much with 120 or 220 just remove any bad sections. Finish with 4 and 600… Then use any good polish. and a yellow 3M pad the finish up with lambs wool pad. I hope that covers it. Make it shine http://surfnwsc.com
Should I use a hard or med. pad rather than a soft for sanding hotcoat? If I had on this board I’d have probably taken the tail completely off.
At what point should I change from 80 to 120? If I get all the shinies out with the 80 with my bad glassing I’m scared I might take it too far when I go to the 120. Is it ok to gloss on an 80 sanded finish?
OK I’m no gloss master thats for sure. I hate pin lines that is for master > glossers but what ever i screw up i always seam to beable to sand out > flat.>>> It starts with a good sand job. I Grind ( plugs, laps ) with a 6000 rpm > Makita grinder.>>> Then i come back and sand with a hard Power Pad with 80 grit and the 6000 > all flats deck and bottom. Then i come back with the same used 80 grit > paper on a med Pad and my polisher Vir/speed at 3000 rpms and fine tune > flats. After i hit all the flats i slow the machine down to about 1500 > rpms and sand my rails with a lite touch from nose to tail walking the > rail. After i have finshed removing all the gloss from the hot coat I hit > all flats with 120 grit at a slow speed maybe about 2000 rpms. After doing > my hand sanding i hit the edges again with the 120 to remove any hand > sanding scratches.>>> Now if i’m glossing i’m done. When i sand finish i will hit the board with > 220 and 400.>>> Gloss>>> Now that i have a good sand to 120 only. I apply a mix of gloss and > sanding resin ( 249a and SA ) it helps flow better and it sands and > polishes better. Take your time when taping off to make for a clean tape > line. You’ll see why when to buzz the rail bead.>>> Polish>>> Dry sand with 400 and a Med. Power Pad ( A good one )Bottom and deck. with > the same paper buzz the bead of the rail don’t burn and hit cloth. When > using 400 hit the edge on the tail to remove the build up on the hard edge > area. When you get done make a pass slap the pad to remove any extra gloss > off the pad. then i come back and and hit with 600 with a soft Pad and > roll it down the rail ( less hand sanding ) to remove any tits. don’t > worry about scratches on the rail. Rails polish so easy i only use 400 on > my hand sand.>>> The one trick is pull your paper ( sand ) in one direction NEVER CROSS > SCRATCH or as little a you can. and in those areas just polish a little > more.>>> You can fix a real shitty gloss start with 120 or 220 then follow with 400 > and 600 but always use a med or even a hard Pad to remove and sand out > splits and tits.>>> Remember when fixing a bad gloss never sand to much with 120 or 220 just > remove any bad sections. Finish with 4 and 600… Then use any good polish. > and a yellow 3M pad the finish up with lambs wool pad.>>> I hope that covers it.>>> Make it shine Rob hit it pretty much on the money.As for polishing I recently started 320 with the soft pad to cut zits and dull wax.500 with the super soft pad.Polish with sureluster and wool pad.The pro tthat clued me in gave me a couple of good tips…use slow rpms.The 320 and 500 grits are kind of odd but trust me.500 cuts better than 600.Sureluster compound will buff it on out.I polish with a wool pad at around 3 to 4thousand rpm with Milwaukee Variable speed sander.As for the rails I still do the old razorblade scrape and hand wetsand.Rob and the pro that taught me are probably mo betta on the rails with the machine.I tried it but sanded to the weave.Polishing is a friggin hassle.Thanks to my friend “Tuna the crooked pinline master” for taking over this odious chore…R.B.
Should I use a hard or med. pad rather than a soft for sanding hotcoat? If > I had on this board I’d have probably taken the tail completely off. Always use a hard pad to make things flat. soft pads float over bumps. The trick is to make things flat again?? Soft pads are only for fine sanding… They bend around rails… Hard pad = 80 grit Med pad = 120, 180, ( 220, 320, 400 Polish ) Soft Pad = 220 sand and 600 wet dry but never wet always sand gloss dry in one direction… If you sand off tail fix!!!it http://surfnwsc.com
At what point should I change from 80 to 120? If I get all the shinies out > with the 80 with my bad glassing I’m scared I might take it too far when I > go to the 120. Is it ok to gloss on an 80 sanded finish? Remember your just removing scratches with the 120 and finer grits. The 80 does most all the work. Just a quik once over with the 120 and 180 to smooth out any 80 grit swirls… you need to go to 120 before glossing but no need to go any more Why??? waste of time to sand any more then 120 for a gloss… You can get splits in your gloss if you sand to smooth i think… But then again i’m no master glosser… I hope someone could tell me what makes the gloss split?? I think it could be the sanding resin i add to my gloss… But it’s how i’ve done my glosses for years… http://surfnwsc.com
At what point should I change from 80 to 120? If I get all the shinies out > with the 80 with my bad glassing I’m scared I might take it too far when I > go to the 120. Is it ok to gloss on an 80 sanded finish? I go 80 with medium pad just to get the big bumps…100 grit with the soft to get most of the shinies…next I put the same piece of 100 on the super soft Ferro pad…finally its 150 with super soft.This is great for pins and gloss.Some guys gloss at 80 0r 100 but I dont for two reasons.I do resin pins and the gloss drags out better at 120 or 150.If you go finer the gloss may seperate.Variable speed Milwaukee sander o to 6000 .Just take your time, as we all said sanding is a very dificult thing…dont try to mimick the pros.I think that a lot of guys have seen the J.C. glassing video and try to do it like the sander in the film…he is friggin unreal but probably has done a million or so…R.B.
Always use a hard pad to make things flat. soft pads float over bumps. The > trick is to make things flat again?? Soft pads are only for fine sanding… > They bend around rails… Hard pad = 80 grit Med pad = 120, 180, ( 220, > 320, 400 Polish ) Soft Pad = 220 sand and 600 wet dry but never wet always > sand gloss dry in one direction…>>> If you sand off tail fix!!!it Yo Rob I was having trouble with the hard pad so I started using the medium.Do you think it is because I am using these really stiff peel and stick 80 grit discs???thanks…R.B.
Rob hit it pretty much on the money.As for polishing I recently started > 320 with the soft pad to cut zits and dull wax.500 with the super soft > pad.Polish with sureluster and wool pad.The pro tthat clued me in gave me > a couple of good tips…use slow rpms.The 320 and 500 grits are kind of > odd but trust me.500 cuts better than 600.Sureluster compound will buff it > on out.I polish with a wool pad at around 3 to 4thousand rpm with > Milwaukee Variable speed sander.As for the rails I still do the old > razorblade scrape and hand wetsand.Rob and the pro that taught me are > probably mo betta on the rails with the machine.I tried it but sanded to > the weave.Polishing is a friggin hassle.Thanks to my friend “Tuna the > crooked pinline master” for taking over this odious chore…R.B. RB try using a med Pad for zit and flats it will remove waves in the gloss better and give you a better finish… It will have a Surf Tech finish just like a pop out would out of of a mold… Soft pads float way to much there to soft…There only made to sand out scratches not flatten… It’s like hand sanding with your hand use a padded sanding block with 80 grit then fine sand with your hand. your hands won’t remove the sanding bands left by the machine… http://surfnwsc.com
Yo Rob I was having trouble with the hard pad so I started using the > medium.Do you think it is because I am using these really stiff peel and > stick 80 grit discs???thanks…R.B. Oooooooo hell yes… Pre cut paper sucks… Cut stock 80 grit 3M but cut it with points… Cut stright then cut stright again leaving little feathering tips on the paper. When sanding glass ons you can shape your base easy try it with a pre cut after you’ll see. You will never see swirls again… NEVER CUT PAPER ROUND… your asking for swirls. When polishing it works even better… cut wet dry the same way… I’ve cut my paper that way for over 30 years… Plus pre cut cost more??? http://surfnwsc.com