2# EPS with carbon ‘[’ shaped rail stringers covered (vac) with 5oz. carbon, 1/16" balsa, 4oz. S Glass.
I used a composite ‘Swaylocks Inspired’ logo (thanks go to the designers!)
I used wood stain to air brush the design on. It won’t bleed IF the mask/stencil is held tight to the wood and spray lightly.
Nose and tail blocks are redwood and bamboo with carbon inbetween.
Bert’s post was just the kick-in-the-pants I needed to get going on this! It was ALL the others that have posted here in the past 1 1/2 years I’ve been reading/learning that helped me get this board looking as GREAT as it does.
A GREAT BIG MAHALO TO YOU ALL!
On the first 4 boards my wife was excited but kept asking “will you ever get them to look… ah… finished?”
This one is VERY close to the ‘finished’ showroom look that both my wife and I have been looking for.
great looking board, i like the idea of the stencilled design, very effective, have your other boards been balsa laminates or is this the first one, how does it go, pete
have your other boards been balsa laminates or is this the first one, how does it go, pete
My first two boards were 9’6" Clark blanks, epoxy, S glass with carbon deck patch. But they got HOT with the carbon showing.
Next two boards were 8’ and 10’ EPS, epoxy, full carbon with tint to cover some of the carbon weave and these were the first that I tried carbon perimeter/rail stringers. Much cooler.
I LOVE the 10’ EPS! Light weight (18#), flex/return, turns on a dime and rides steady! I mean I can just saunter up to the front 1/3 of the board nice and easy. I still need to get the confidence to actually put my toes over the nose!
Haven’t got it wet yet. I have two people (my local mentors) that I want to show it to before the wax goes on.
I have a block of 1’x2’x10’ EPS that I’ll get another 3 boards from then I want to try the HD 1# foam!
you did well with the rail wrap , obviously from doing the rails first and having a hard surface to pull over …
Thank you Bert!
You were the the one that kicked my butt to get me going on this, my first, woody! The next one I’m going to actually make more work for my self by vac each layer seperately, 1-carbon rail stringers, 2-1 layer of carbon, 3- balsa, 4- S glass. I think it will make for a better quality of board, not to mention better looks too!
When I first got the balsa I unwrapped the first package of 20 strips and started feeling them. I noticed that some would bend more easilly than the others. I began seperating the strips into very bendable, bendable, stiff and used the easy ones on the rails.
The only trouble I had was within 8" of the tail and nose. I think with the experience of this one the next will be MUCH better!
Again, THANK YOU!
I’ll take the board out for it’s baptismal next Sunday.
P.S. It turned out 21# and seems to be VERY strong (thumb won’t depress AT ALL!) just as you said it would.
Also… made my first fin, a woody also, to go with the board. Its redwood and bamboo with carbon down the center.
I’m thinking of doing a few with carbon down the center of balsa and making them a bit wider than ‘normal’ (as per Paul J)
Exceptionally nice. I noticed you used “[” shaped carbon rails. I’ve done a few of those too and like the structural results. I used 4 inch CF tape. Tell us some of your experiences in getting the balsa to wrap around the rails (ie, how the hell did you do it?) and thx
tridrles, I really like the way a stripe of black carbon shows between the pieces of wood! Structural, functional, beautiful…all at once. My kind of look Nice job. can’t wait for the review.
I noticed you used “[” shaped carbon rails. I’ve done a few of those too and like the structural results. I used 4 inch CF tape. Tell us some of your experiences in getting the balsa to wrap around the rails (ie, how the hell did you do it?) and thx
First… I sure like the carbon perimiter/rail stringers too! The way I did mine was to lay the profile template on top of the carbon and cut an inch wider on both sides, wet it out then slide it into the center of the partially cut rail that was held up by a string attached to the roof of my garage then fold each side into the middle. Next strip of peal ply under masking tape to hold the rail onto the board and into the bag to vac.
HOw did I wrap the balsa…as I said in my last post… when I unwrapped the balsa I started playing with it, getting used to how it feels gently bending it around the rail to test it. I noticed that some of the strips were more flexable than others and some would begin to crack when I just began to bend it. I tested each strip (60 of em.) and placed them into piles of a. very bendable b. bendable c. stiff.
after the carbon was on the board I started taping the balsa together, working from the middle with the stiffest balsa strips to the outside with the more flexable ones.
I glassed the deck with one layer of carbon then glassed the bottom with one layer of carbon AND the 1/16" balsa (not good! I got some creases on the carbon next time I’ll do the carbon top and bottom then after it’s cured I’ll do the balsa bottom then top.) I then block sanded the rails so that there was a smooth transdition from 1/16" balsa to the carbon 3/4 the way around the rail. Next I layed the balsa on the deck and vaced it inplace, overlapping the bottom balsa. Next was the tricky part… I again block sanded the deck palsa to blend into the bottom balsa. It worked pretty good. There were only a few areas that I had to glue more balsa on to cover up the carbon showing through.
The only problem I had was within 8" of the tail and nose. I’ll post some pics of hte areas that didn’t have enough epoxy (I guess) and they wanted to lift up.
Rail problem, before glass:
And here is a shot of how I wrapped the rails, Peel ply then masking tape to hold balsa untill it’s in the bag:
Tridrles, why did you cut and insert the CF into the rail. Could you not have just wrapped it around the rail since it would be covered by balsa anyway? And it would have given a bit of armor to the rail. The “[” shape would have been also maintained.
Hi Greg! I thought it was important with a board this size to have a stringer(s) so went with rail-stringers out of carbon fiber. Using the CF keeps the board light, flexable AND strong. I have CF (2 layers) on the rails also, it’s just under the balsa. There’s info here about rail (parabolic?, perimeter?) stringers and how they strengthen the board but let it move/flex. Greg L. and Bert have talked about them in previous posts.
AND… Sunday I’m taking it out! I just hated putting wax on it this morning ;(
I’m watching my daughter finish the Big Sur Marathon (5k) then off to the beach. So… If you’re on the Monterey Pen. I’ll be out at either Carmel or Asilomar, which ever is best, about 9am. And I’ll post some pics Sun. evening.
Hey Les… Let us know how it feels in the water… Paul
It sure was hard putting that wax on… maybe I’ll get some of that Hula Dek stuff if I don’t sell it first to make a bunch more! Here’s the christening:
and the paddle out...
and the test…
So… you ask “how does it ride?”
At first hopping on it, it felt much like board #4 that is exactly (as close as possable) the same as #5 (this one). It paddles the same if not just a bit faster (it’s 1/4" thicker).
As I paddled out and bounced over waves that were just breaking I didn’t get that ‘broing’ springy feel that I do on #4.
Taking off on a the first wave was nice and easy, just a few strokes and off, the board was moving! I stand, let the board gently slide forward untill the wave begins to break, I step back with my left foot and lean into it. The board gently and smoothly, in that classic style, glides around and comes to the top of the wave where I move my left foot to the right rail, the board, again, gently takes a steady arch to line up in trim with the wave. I try walking to the nose…
and the wave peters out. Oh well, HAHOO! It’s a classic!
NOw for the evaluation…
Board #5 is GREAT! It has that classic longboard, smooth/gentle/flowing movement. But, I like board #4 better because it turns faster, is lighter and I think I like the more flexability in it.
So… to make a balsa longboard but to react like board #4 I’ll try using 1#EPS but all other construction materials and building techniques the same.
Nice job. can’t wait for the review.
next time I’ll do the carbon top and bottom then after it’s cured I’ll do the balsa bottom then top.) I then block sanded the rails so that there was a smooth transdition from 1/16" balsa to the carbon 3/4 the way around the rail. Next I layed the balsa on the deck and vaced it inplace, overlapping the bottom balsa. Next was the tricky part… I again block sanded the deck palsa to blend into the bottom balsa. It worked pretty good. There were only a few areas that I had to glue more balsa on to cover up the carbon showing through.
