Balsa wood Plank???

I was wondering if anyone out there has tried glueing Balsa wood planks together to make their own Balsa Blank? I was thinking about trying this,over the winter. I got a source were i can get the Balsa at a good price, but i can only get 36" and 48" in length. I was think about glueing 2"x4"x36" together to get a 9 footer with 24" wide and 4" thick, but i think i might run into trouble with the rocker thickness. I’d like to hear from others, if this would be worth trying over the winter, or not. Thanks, guys and keep up the super work. Later, Stephen Berube

I was wondering if anyone out there has tried glueing Balsa wood planks > together to make their own Balsa Blank? I was thinking about trying > this,over the winter. I got a source were i can get the Balsa at a good > price, but i can only get 36" and 48" in length. I was think > about glueing 2"x4"x36" together to get a 9 footer with > 24" wide and 4" thick, but i think i might run into trouble with > the rocker thickness. I’d like to hear from others, if this would be worth > trying over the winter, or not. Thanks, guys and keep up the super work. > Later, Stephen Berube What you will run into is, the lack of a jointer, planer and band saw to start with. Going for the scabbed pieces will also be a MAJOR hurdle, as butt joints WON’T work. From your post I gather you are in Fla, George Robinson in Melbourne has a supply of marginal quality wood for blanks, He can rocker and glue up for you. Or if you get really serious and want to spring for the best you can buy, go for one of the commercial blanks (Rhino) or as in my case, have me make up a blank with custom rocker and thicknesses. You have the added cost of shipping to add to the figure, but when you get into a project like this, it is best to not cut corners as scrimping only saves a small amount in the larger picture.

What you will run into is, the lack of a jointer, planer and band saw to > start with. Going for the scabbed pieces will also be a MAJOR hurdle, as > butt joints WON’T work. From your post I gather you are in Fla, George > Robinson in Melbourne has a supply of marginal quality wood for blanks, He > can rocker and glue up for you. Or if you get really serious and want to > spring for the best you can buy, go for one of the commercial blanks > (Rhino) or as in my case, have me make up a blank with custom rocker and > thicknesses. You have the added cost of shipping to add to the figure, but > when you get into a project like this, it is best to not cut corners as > scrimping only saves a small amount in the larger picture. Jim- Do you know how to get in touch with Rhino Balsa? How much do you charge for a 9’6 rockered blank? Seems that Rhino’s the web page has been down for a while. Thanks

Jim- Do you know how to get in touch with Rhino Balsa? How much do you > charge for a 9’6 rockered blank? Seems that Rhino’s the web page has been > down for a while.>>> Thanks They deliver to KKL, so I’ll check with them

You’ll need to do scarfs to join the planks. To my opinion scarfs should be at least 5-7 times the thickness of your planks. That’s a lot of work, I’ve done it. The glue I’ve used is boat building polyurethane glue. It’s yellow and expands into foam while drying. It uses the moisture inside the wood to cure, binds very well and is fairly easy to sand (not as hard as resin, not rubber like). However, you’ll still see the yellow glue joints … Lot of work, if I could have got a balsa blank I would have purchased one (but blanks are not available in France). Pierre

Jim- Do you know how to get in touch with Rhino Balsa? How much do you > charge for a 9’6 rockered blank? Seems that Rhino’s the web page has been > down for a while.>>> Thanks 805- 884-0050 Gary Fuller Web site under reconstruction

You’ll need to do scarfs to join the planks. To my opinion scarfs should > be at least 5-7 times the thickness of your planks. That’s a lot of work, > I’ve done it. The glue I’ve used is boat building polyurethane glue. It’s > yellow and expands into foam while drying. It uses the moisture inside the > wood to cure, binds very well and is fairly easy to sand (not as hard as > resin, not rubber like). However, you’ll still see the yellow glue joints > …>>> Lot of work, if I could have got a balsa blank I would have purchased one > (but blanks are not available in France).>>> Pierre Wouldn’t that brown powder wood glue you mix with water work? Resorsinal (spelling) or some thing like that work. The stuff is really strong and dries similar the the color of wood. It’s use in wooden boat construction all the time. It’s tough! What about epoxying the scarfs? Just some ideas. Best, Rich

What you will run into is, the lack of a jointer, planer and band saw to > start with. Going for the scabbed pieces will also be a MAJOR hurdle, as > butt joints WON’T work. From your post I gather you are in Fla, George > Robinson in Melbourne has a supply of marginal quality wood for blanks, He > can rocker and glue up for you. Or if you get really serious and want to > spring for the best you can buy, go for one of the commercial blanks > (Rhino) or as in my case, have me make up a blank with custom rocker and > thicknesses. You have the added cost of shipping to add to the figure, but > when you get into a project like this, it is best to not cut corners as > scrimping only saves a small amount in the larger picture. Thanks Jim, I got to head up to Clark for a Three string 9’1" and a regular 9’1" and a couple of other blanks, so i’ll just drop in and see what he has. Found his website. Looks like pretty good prices to. Here’s the website if anyone else would like to know where to get balsa blanks in Fl. Thanks Jim and everyone else for your help. Later, Stephen Berube http://www.grdesigns.com/Products/Blanks/blanks.htm http://http://www.grdesigns.com/Products/Blanks/blanks.htm

Wouldn’t that brown powder wood glue you mix with water work? Resorsinal > (spelling) or some thing like that work. The stuff is really strong and > dries similar the the color of wood. It’s use in wooden boat construction > all the time. It’s tough! What about epoxying the scarfs? Just some ideas.>>> Best, Rich When I am doing joints that show and the appearance matters, I use the cheap white Elmers glue, the seam comes out nearly clear. The urethane glue is bullet proof, but hand protection is a must, even acetone doesn’t wash it off and later you will have a dirt collecting coating for at least 5 days. Its best to use a soft glue on joints and seams when you intend on sanding it. It is tough enough to sand balsa with the different densities between planks without having a nice hard glue seam in there to fork with you