If you surf a beachbreak that closes out often, what kind of rocker would be best suited for that? A fish? Or would more rocker be the way to go? Single concave? Double? Ed
i suggest a rocking chair and a cup of coffee to watch the waves closing out…no matter what board you ride on a closeout you will be getting a tumblin…what i would do is get yerself a surfmat…i find they are the most fun in those beachbreaking closing out days…now, for the days yer break aint closing out i suggest a longboard, kinda thick, pretty flat, pretty soft rails, very little if any concave, slight rocker in nose, no rocker in tail, square tail and single fin, glassed heavy…that oughta work just fine in pretty much the rest of the non closeout days
Ed, I like closeout beach breaks too. My fav! It’s pro’ly some kinda sick fetish. My favorite weapon is 8’ to 8-6 with full width and thickness. The tail has to be 14.5 to 15", and the stern has to be narrow, pintail to 4". Tail rocker should be pronounced at 3% to 3.1% of board length. about 1/4" tail V. Center rail line should be lower than 1/3 of board thickness without extra tuck. Hard down tail rails. 2+1 fins, 3" sidebites and 8" cutaway. The formula turns well and paddles easily. I’ve tried other forms, and like this one best. The idea is lots of floatation so you can paddle in as early as possible, but not so much length that you can’t get the nose around. Paddle in at an angle, pop up early, and turn from the top. The curved tail rail and rocker holds the wall as you drop/turn. It’s white-knuckles til you get covered up, and there’s not alot of wave competition. Now and then I get lucky and break out. Woo Hoo!
For small, mostly closed out beachbreak, “El Paipo Grande” is my first choice. If there is any chance for a good section, EPG will provide all that is needed for a fun experience.For pictures, dimensions and other ravings, type in El Paipo Grande in Swaylocks search. Roger
A horse is a horse of course, of course, but a fish is for beachbreak.
Of course.
One afternoon a few days ago, I got a call from a friend who rides beachbreak, whether good or bad, almost every day. He just loves being out in the water, and was really pumped, talking rapid-fire because there had been a run of great waves, with a backlog of details to share. Hed been evaluating a design that Id built for him, and had been on it every single day for the past three weeks! A few of those sessions were breaking double and triple overhead, and on the largest day, he was the only surfer to make it all the way outside… fairly amazing for his 61 years of age. But it was obvious that the waves he was the most stoked about were the nearly closed out, 1’ to 2’ inside double-up “zippers”… one of which just barely allowed escape, with two separate, streaking fast deep tubes! It was George Greenough… riding his surfmat.
Thanks Wilbers! Life Perserver it is! Mr.Ed
“Wilbers”? Tell you what, pretend like I never responded to you.
Noodle- E-mail me from the “Resources” link. I’ve got EPS billet quotes delivered to your door that are muy barato for Tejanos. Tom S. http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/226.html
My original question was sincere. The resposnes were poking fun at my name, and at my question about surfboards. Is “sit on a chair” an answer? Is “of coarse of coarse” an answer? Is “get a surfmat” an answer? No! Who is the jerk? Go back and look at the question and see that it was “real”. It was the childish responses to harp on someone unseen and unavailable that made me give up and add a joke at the end. NoMoreName
“If you surf a beachbreak that closes out often, what kind of rocker would be best suited for that? A fish? Or would more rocker be the way to go? Single concave? Double? Ed” Lighten up guy, you chose the name. Look at it this way, someone old enough remember Mr.ED in B&W might just have something to sat that is worth listening to. Your original question left quite a range of possibilities of surfcraft to choose from (where did you specify a “surfboard”). A run of the mill rack board isn’t in the mix. You got some excellent feedback, a Fish, a high performance surf mat and any number of relaxed rockered shapes. I’ve got one of each in my quiver and the mat gets it’s share of time in the lineup. Why limit your choices to a run of the mill board off the rack? Whether you know it or not you just got feedback from some pretty well respected surfboard designers if you choose to thumb your nose at their suggestions then it will be your loss. Your wave, enjoy it. Tom S.
Tom, Never intended to put down your surfmats.Or anyone else. Just frustrated that the answers were clouded in between jokes. That’s all. Ever felt that?
Sorry to all for the joke gone bad.
Have any of you Swaylock’s folk actually SEEN George Greenough lately? The eccentric genious live in the hills outside of Byron Bay Australia, and he is a living dirtbag! The guy is a mess, still sporting that bowl cut he has always had but if you didn’t know who it was you’d think he was homeless. And just an observation from talking to many of the surfers/waveriders down there, most of them think hes an arsehole!! Usually the best thing they have to say about him is that he keeps to himself. BUT, the f&^%$r is one of the most innovative manufacterers and one helluva waverider, Dale S. my hats off to you for continuing to bring the surfmats to another level. Byt the way how much $$$ do your mats cost, I saw some in Oz but they were pushing too close to the price of a surfboard. (My personal fetish) Dave
Dave, As you noted in the case of George… first impressions are often deceiving. All my surfmats are custom, $295.00 in the US, and about $700.00+ in Australia. But I`ve recently been told that the current exchange rate has reduced that cost by around $100.00. They seem to be taking on lives of their own, with reputations that precede them. Thanks for asking!
My buddy in NSW heard say those things re-sell @ $600-$700 AUD. must be somethin ace goin on to fetch that kinda bux$$$. I might give one a burl just to see.
Current exchange rates are US $1.00 = AUD $1.58 making a $600AUD about$380US And although true, looks and first impressions are often deceiving, the dirt coat he sports doesn’t lie. As for why many of the aussies don’t like him… I have no idea. I have always wanted to meet him if for nothing else to thank him for his works!! Plus I have watched “The Innermost Limits of Pure Fun” enough to see and appreciate his skills. dave
Dave, In addition to the price of my surfmats, there`s also shipping charges and other fees which contribute to the much higher cost to Australians. Open free trade would help resolve that issue.