Seriously buy something at least 6’8"-7’2"! Trust me - it’s going to be plenty loose. And don’t go under 19 " wide as it get too loose when surfs up. 20", 21" wide is cool. Thickness prob 2 1/2"-3" thick. The old school paddle pos is you should be able to wrap hand on
The nose while paddling to get position. Get that down pat first, after that you throw it out once you work your way down to a six four. This is how I was taught AS A LOCAL!
Totally agree SammyA. That’s why I got to the point of selling it to build my own board. It was great at catching waves that most short boards couldn’t and was very forgiving at getting up on but trying to turn on it wasn’t so good. It gave me the confidence to move onto something a bit more challenging though.
I have a feeling we won’t be hearing from DevGoone now that he bought his board. I think he was looking for affirmation to buy a board, not really understanding surfing or boards. Oh well, I have to admit that I was just like DevGoone. Find a cool looking board, price seems right, buy it. But based on the pics that he posted, I don’t think that board was the best buy. Curious what happened to the fron 1/3 on the deck.
I agree with everyone here recommending a larger board. I think it’s also important to consider “is this a good board to add to my quiver?” I think all of us here have a garage full of boards and each one of them we use for different conditions. Learning is important and finding a board to help with that process is important. But you can also keep that board and still ride it even though you’ve “surpassed” the board. But seriously, except for the Costco softboards, you never reach the limits of surfboard. You can always take the board to a new spot and realize you have to surf differently and I think this is super important to making you a better surfer.
That board is super wide and thick for your weight. It would be a great for you to learn on.
…seems that we are few that talk about he should go with that kind of volume and not more…
I bet all my shaping tools that all here that talk about riding longboards etc do not have a modern surfing, do not ride shortboards, etc.
He is a young guy and has mid size body and weight… I repeat if he wants in couple of seasons ride shortboards and perform maneuvers he cannot do that with longboards…
If you observe no matter the country, the teenagers, etc almost all learn with really potato chips…and sometimes that s an error but in this case as few here are mentioning with the volume on that board is really enough for his biotype, no matter if he s a rookie.
Also I bet that he do not want to only standing up on a longboard near the shore and call it Surfing.
So almost all the kids and teenagers learn in small boards, and then you know what? in couple of seasons they fly on the waves and perform all these radical maneuvers and this is not my opinion, go to the beach an see with your eyes; I m somewhat old and I ride shortboards, also Im not big, so I surf with these kids in daily basis, Im not going to the beach to see them from the parking lot.
But seems that in this thread we have 2 schools like with the threads that talk about coating fins, etc; 2 different types of Surfing and surfboards.
That’s pretty much what I already said. A longboard is only good for a beginner up to a certain point. After getting some rudimentary skills figured out, they are a hindrance to ‘real’ surfing.
Not trying to highjack this thread.
Just wondering… what exactly is ‘real’ surfing?
Just wanted to let you guys know i didnt end up getting a board, decieded it wouldnt be smart to try to learn on a shortboard since it would require really consitent efforts, and i just dont have the luxury of going every day since i live about 45 min away from the beach. thanks for all the feedback though guys
Oh… stuff like turning, cutbacks, tube rides, etc
They all can be done on a longboard, but with great effort for most beginners.
Back in the late 60s, just about everyone decided to ride shorter boards. There was a simple reason for that change. It’s called “performance”.
No offense to Mr. Mellor, but Mondos is NOT A SURF SPOT.
Unless you are re-habing an injury or after a surgery, or teaching a kid to surf…it isn’t a spot. I can’t believe what has happened there. HODAD CITY!! Goons thinking it is a hangout and standing in the road (old PCH) or casually crossing while the wind catches the board and swings it into oncoming traffic. Most of the folks there should be ashamed of themselves for paddleing out there. Mandos wasn’t even a spot when Mando was around. The old time Mary’s guys just shake their heads and wonder.
shhhhhh
let 'em hang out there, keeps 'em out of the way
good spot for the paddle-boat guys, too
long as they don’t drift up the point!
Mandos is fine, its a really great wave. It forms up on the outside and if you stroke your paddle really hard, you can get a great ride of 20, maybe even 30 feet. The kelp isn’t a problem at all. Low tide is the best. Park up by the houses and change in the street, nobody really cares. Mary is no longer there, and Curren lives in town now. Don’t paddle north, there’s nothing up there but close-outs and sharp rocks that will destroy any epoxy construction. It is such a bad wave on a true west that nobody dares surf there and the place doesn’t have a real name anymore. Besides, forget old PCH, there’s much better spots in the South. The surf is always better on the weekend anyway. Just my 2c…
PM me Dev. I have a board for you. No cost. You will need to buy the fins. LB Slightly used demo board. BKB
And here’s your ultimate surfing lesson, Dev: Aloha!
no kidding! haha im hyped!
Very cool, pay it forward! Two things that make surfing special, free advice and generosity.
For what it’s worth, the 6’4" would be fine for you. I had 15lbs on you and learnt on something a few inches shorter, moving to pretty standard shortboards after a few months.
Not to dis LB’s, but whatever help they give a newb quickly becomes a hindrance if you are fit enough to progress quickly. How often do you see someone get barrelled on one?
How often do you see a beginner get barreled in their first year?
On the other hand, how often do you sit watching beginners?
Especially if it’s barreling?
type type type blah blah blah sorry…
Plus, it’s a lot easier to move from a small board to a larger board than it is to move from a large board to a shorter one. You guys are funny. Mike
I see plenty of beginners around here. Quite often they are crippled by longboard/soft boards or totally inappropriate hp shortboards. Either one will flatten the trajectory of a new surfers learning curve. Very hollow beachies around here generally, and both of those board choices will get you pitched.
It might depend a bit on your conditions I suppose.
I lived near Bells Beach many years ago, and I learnt on a piggy thruster just like the OP was proposing. Less piggy actually. I did, and all of my friends did. Fun Boards, mini-mals, soft tops and surf schools hadn’t come on the scene yet.
Those boards were mobile, had drive, were duck-divable and helped us get fit. Sure they were the fashion of the time, but thankfully that fashion was power surfing by nuggety Aussies with tree-trunks for legs.
An additional benefit of those “sensible” shortboards is that fairly shortly after you learn to stinkbug down the line you can be turning with some power and poise. It starts off as an accident of timing and positioning but once you get used to it, it becomes controllable. Just like getting tubed.
For an 18 year old guy of average fitness hitting the water on a regular basis, getting the occasional tube within a year should be an achievable milestone if your local throws the occasional lip.
Not trying to piss on anyone, there are many ways to skin a cat. Giving the fella a board was a really awesome thing to do.
Why do people always bring up " duck diving when talking about a quality of surfboard? Who gives a pants full! The sport is called Surfing not Ducking. It’s sounds like a Golfer saying use this club it’s easier to carry then that other club.
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