I am thinking that because balsa is strong, a single layer of 6 oz. might be enough, probably with a stomp patch on the back half of the deck? Comments? This is a 9’6" board, multiple stringers, so its not going to snap in two… I’ve got it down to 20 lbs and want to keep it as light as I can.
Keith: With canoes using 1/4" cedar it is usual to use one layer of 4 oz on the inside and outside for a light boat and 6 oz on the outside if more strenght is desired. Assuming there is probably at least a 1/2" of balsa above the chambers 4 oz would probably be enough and it would keep the weight down. If weight is factor consider using epoxy. According to Greg and others the same or better strenght can be obtained with less resin and weight by using epoxy. Hope this helps some. Please post the board when it is finished. Good luck. Patrick
Depends on the balsa to an extent (some female stuff can be spongy) but for sure lighter than foam. I would think one layer of 6 each side would be adaquate for most balsa. I (of course) agree with Patrick and epoxy would help keep your weight down.
ahh. ive been wanting to try my hand at a balsa board. and i found a place that sells it, but ive heard it has to be sat or dried or soemthing for years. is this true. also lately ive noticed alot of boards around in shops that are foam but have like a sheet of balsa or soemthing. im sure its not just painted on, but looks like a sheet or something. anyone weanna explain this. dk
good balsa is hard to get, expensive. Suggest not getting into balsa until you really have a chance to talk to those who use it regularly - let’s see how this group responds. I don’t think sources for good balsa are generally made public, the stuff is that hard to locate. fake balsa is just stains on the surface of foam, some can look nice until you get close. Anyway, balsa boards may be best suited for wall hangers, considering the extra weight, glassing issues, patching difficulties, etc. I have a pal with eight balsa Brewer longboards, and he rides one or another of them here and there, but he’s bucks up and can afford to pay - what - $4,500 each? Think about the total cost of an quiver of eight…
ahh i see, how much do u think it would run me to make one?? well theres a couple choices as to where id get it from. 1st is some place down in miami which sells…“balsa surfboard blanks”. which i figured wouldnt be the best place to get it. especially after i heard not all balsa is good.and the second place is, i know a guy who is an awesome wood worker. making desks, table chairs, and sellign them for a really high price. luckily the dude is really nice and looking for friends, as hes out on disability with a heart problem. anyways hes a great friend of my pops and has given me tools and everything for free. but he says hes got this friend who has all these trees which he gives to him for free(something about killing his garden) so anyways the guys got balsa every where. and the guy said he would cut and glue it for me. and if i wanted hed put soem inlays in it after i shaped it all, for free. so i figured would it be good wood if i just let it sit or dry for a while. im not sure what makes good and bad wood. please explain. dk
It comes in different weights or densities. The same size chunk from different balsa trees will weigh different after drying out. The super light stuff can be junky so I guess the lightest density that is still solid is what you’re after. For a shorter board (under 9 feet) it will be easier to find decent wood. As you go longer, prepare to search and pay and wait. As in the old days, I’m sure that repeat customers with an “in” at the lumber yard will get priority on the prime stuff. With guys like Greg Noll, Dick Brewer, Yater, Jim Phillips, etc on the list for the best stuff in long lengths, the rest of us get what’s left. The folks at Shark Bay International seem like they are trying hard to make some inroads to the US. If you want to try them, check link below. Last time I checked, prices for solid balsa 10’ blank was 260.00 plus crate and shipping. The crates were 50.00 and shipping depends on where you live. Ecuador products apparently are not subject to tariffs. If you need more info, e-mail me and I can send you copies of some of the paperwork I received. http://www.surfers-directory.com/sddirectory/florida/sdfl01/default.htm
Ah, the truths and falicies about balsa! Good for all of you who know balsa to share with all who do not. I learned how to work with balsa from OLE, whom I worked for in the '60s(in Ca.,before Hawaii). For 10 years, I cut balsa in South America and exported wood to various shapers in Calif and Hawaii, including Dick Brewer, Bill Hamilton, Diff, Terry Chung, and others. I no longer am selling wood, but still make wood boards. The process is long and tedious, but once the board is done, the finished product is well worth it! I look at it as a form of ‘meditation’, make sure your cutting blades are SHARP. Difference in wood density are primariley due to the age of the tree, and how the tree grew in the forest. True, the female tree tends to be lighter, more ‘pithy’ wood, but I’ve seen that where the tree is growing has a greater effect on density. The higher the rainfall in a growing area, the lighter the wood(for younger trees)because the wood cells are bigger, and when dry…lighter. Kiln drying explodes these cells, because of expanding steam, so air dryied wood is stronger. Air drying can take 6mon to 1 year depending on the humidity its in. Also, don’t be hung up on high-tech glues, I use white glue, its lighter and isn’t so hard that it stands up as a ‘ridge’ between the softer wood. Oh,…and for all who think that balsa boards are only wall hangers, nothing rides as smooth as a balsa board! Aloha Nui-Paul Kraus
Paul, I bought some balsa from you a few years back. Really nice wood. I had it sent down to Clark and had it glued up to a 11’ 3" Velzy blank. If I could figure out how I would post a pic. of the board that Doug Haut made for me using that blank I would show it to you. I never got a change to think you for sending me the balsa. So here it is. Think you very much. AL
Hi Al, You’re welcome! glad to hear that you got a beautiful board out of that wood. Best wishes, have a safe holiday. - Paul
You can make your own blank for less than 100 dollars, by doing the following : If you make your blank out of solid balsa, then you’ll take 80% of the wood when shaping and chambering the board : EXPENSIVE and difficult to shape If, instead, you use the “Simmons” sandwich approach, you have nearly no waste and your board is a lot easier to shape. Here’s how I did it : 1. First I shaped a styrofoam core (recycled from an old epoxy/styrofoam sailboard) using a hand saw & surfoam : cut the outline and squared the rails. 2. I then glue on each rail a balsa plank (1 cm thick) that has been cut according to rocker line. I use a polyurethane yellow glue : it glues strongly and remains easily sandable. 3. Next I hotwire the deck and bottom rocker using the glued balsa as a guide. 4. With the two balsa “side stringers” the blank is now rigid enough to glue the top and bottom balsa planks (2 cm on top, 1 cm on bottom). 5. 3 cm more balsa is added on each rail as well as large tail and nose blocks 6. lots of sanding 7. Rails are then shaped using hand plane and sandpaper 8. Final sanding 9. Applied a water based sealant 10. Brought it to the glass shop (6+4 on top ; 6 on bottom - polyester) They also use this technic : http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4065574901/eindex.html http://www.riley.com.au/surfboards.htm http://www.swaylocks.com/resources/Detailed/308.html