Best Glue for Stringers??? I need help --

General Discussion
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I have a few stringerless polyurethane blanks, and also a few stringerless extruded polystyrene blanks. I’ve used the two part epoxy to glue up stringers, but its a bit brittle and harsh on my hand planers. Does anybody know the exact glue that clark used? Can anyone make a damn good suggestion on the best glue to use to glue up blanks? Something that is time efficient, easy on my hand planers (like clark’s). Can anyone who is glueing up a lot of EPS tell me what they are using? Please be brand specific and glue type - i’m getting desperate. Thanks everyone —

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Roo Glue Clear

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There are tons of info in the archives on this one. There have been a few in the last few days. Search for It!!

OK, now that the dislaimer is done…

http://www.swaylocks.com/forum/gforum.cgi?post=253143;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;;page=unread#unread

I reccommend the elmers version of gorilla glue. Cheaper than Gorilla and works just as well. Plus, Benny told me to use it, and when it comes to EPS blanks listening to Benny is in your best interest, I promise.

As far as the polyurethane blanks, i dont know, but I imagine the same Gorilla glue knock off would work…but I don’t know for sure.

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Rajadat,

Any of the glues mentioned in this post so far are fine. I personally don’t grab the gorilla glue type glue out of the cabinet for such work, as it is messy, foams, expands into pores surrounding the work, is quite a bit more expensive, and has little or no gap-filling ability. I would use “Titebond” in either the original formula or the “Titebond III” for a longer set time (more time to work, clamp, set up, before it begins to set up. Enjoy the ride!

Richard

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Thanks guys, I’m looking specifically to glue up polyurethane blanks and extruded PS though - and am not really pleased with the gorrilla glue and elmers pu ultimate glue. I’m going to go see if i can get some of the roo glue, but I’m really wondering if someone knows what clark used. I need it to remain soft like the clark glue so that it doesn’t dull my hand blades. I need a fast working time… any more ideas? thanks again —

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i’m fairly certain clark used lam resin…coloring optional.

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As Richard said, one of the Titebond wood glues will do a nice job, or another of the ‘aliphatic resin glues’ such as the Elmer’s yellow woodworkers glue and similar.

They stay reasonably soft ( kind to your hand tool edges) , they are far more than strong enough for the job, they won’t give off any byproducts that may eat a styrene foam ( as the Gorilla Glue, Roo Glue and Elmers urethane glues might give off ) and they clean up with water. Available in any hardware store or builder’s supply.

hope that’s of use.

doc…

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Forget what Clark used.

Here’s a list. Take your pick.

But my first choice would be the foam carpet backing adhesive. I’ve see 77 used for EPS and I see no reason it won’t work for PU. Fast and easy. Use a paper filter mask minimum. For high production you will need more protection. Work in well ventilated area.

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/manufacturing_industry/engineered_adhesives/node_GSJ6VF60SQbe/root_GST1T4S9TCgv/vroot_WHG0MWH6QPge/gvel_VJ9R6TT0WDgl/theme_us_adhesivetape_3_0/command_AbcPageHandler/output_html

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Quote:

they won’t give off any byproducts that may eat a styrene foam ( as the Gorilla Glue, Roo Glue and Elmers urethane glues might give off )

no worries with Roo Glue on EPS…in fact, i’m fairly certain that’s what Greg uses.

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Polyurethane glues don’t eat polystyrenes. Polyester resins do, as do glues propelled or catalyzed with hydrocarbon solvents.

Gorilla-type glues are perfectly safe.

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“no worries with Roo Glue on EPS…in fact, i’m fairly certain that’s what Greg uses.”

Read that used to use. See my post above:-)