Just wondering what are the best glues/ adhesives people have found for making WOOD surfboards. I’ve found a wicked sweet epoxy for my glass that hasn’t given me probs yet(Fiber-Tek), but I have trouble finding a good glue. Any help would be cool. -Red
Try water activated urathane glue. Gorila glue is a name brand
If the epoxy isn’t too tough, why not use that?
Plain old carpenters yellow glue is all you need. When I spot glue blanks to be chambered, I only use 4 or 5 drops along a plank and there are times I can hardly break the bond, no shit, so there is no need for atomic glue
I use a variety of glues…Yellow glue for wood to wood…Solvent based contact cement for wood to cork…“Liquid Nails - Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive” for hidden wood frame to carbon fiber (cured) attachments…Epoxy is another option… http://hollowsurfboards.com
I’m 3/4 through making a 1936 Tom Blake kook box and I’ve used three glues in some of the wood laminiating just to test them. 1. Gorrilla Glue - Foams up strangely and is hard to clamp. Water proof so they say. 2. West System Epoxy - Glues well, cures SLOW in a NorCal winter. Strong as She-ite. 3. Yellow Carpenters glue - Water resistant, clamps nice. Sands alright. FOr use “above the waterline” but if you glass it consider it so. So far, I’m pooh-poohing the Gorrilla Glue and would use 2 & 3 again.
elemers has a new glue and its similar in color to the gorilla glue, it does that foam stuff too it sucks http://www.surfboardglassing.com
I’m 80% through building a hollow board inspired by Paul Jensens site. Just got the fin and glassing to go. I used bog standard waterproof contact cement from the local hardware for all the laminating work and liquid nails to glue the deck / bottom on. Liquid nails is pretty forgiving to use, filling in all the gaps between wood that should fit snug, but dont!
Listen to Jim P., a yellow carpenters glue is best (glue bond is stronger than the wood). I have used the brand “Titebond” (available most anywhere) on museum quality furniture for decades, including a walnut rocker built in 1976 which has endured continual use and therefore stressed joints and remains perfectly sound. Titebond also makes “Titebond 11” which is highly water resistant(not fully submerseable for long periods). Assume you’re glassing your board anyway. Don’t know what kind of boards you’re doing, but for bent laminations (such as P. Jensens’s rails) where it is difficult to apply continual even clamping, a urea formaldehyde glue is superior. It allows “creep” movement better than most glues. Available in a brand called “Weldwood” or you can order from HighlandHardware.com (URAC 185 laminating glue). Finally, if you’re doing balsa and the glue line will show such as on scarf joints or if you mix with sanding dust for filler repairs (heaven forbid), just use Elmers white glue, as the glue line will be less viseable. Gorilla glue is fine (expensive), just a little messy, but wait a few hours and the glue lines easily scrape off with chisel, putty knife, or surfboard wax scraper. Enjoy the ride!