I slipped when hot wiring my 14 ft blank. The wire slipped into a splice in my template.
What’s the best way to fill this large void?
It’s right on the mid point.
I slipped when hot wiring my 14 ft blank. The wire slipped into a splice in my template.
What’s the best way to fill this large void?
It’s right on the mid point.
Hi Dwight -
Ouch. I think I would carry on like nothing happened. Some of it is going to shape out anyway. What’s left in the way of a gap can be filled with a wedge of leftover foam. Try not to use a lot of glue - it doesn’t take much to hold a piece in there long enough to finish shaping, spackle and glass.
On that Bill Foote downwind model on Standupzone.com I think he glued a block on the tail to get the length required. He also created good sized voids to lighten it up but he used a sandwich composite skin over the holes. A little wedge fitted in and spackled on your board shouldn’t be a big deal.
The reason I suggest shaping first is to avoid any issues with hard exposed glue lines. You’ll have a better idea how big of a wedge to glue in after it’s shaped.
Please check out the sewing machine bobbin trick on your wire to track along your profile patterns… it can save you from that situation.
https://swaylocks7stage.s3.us-east-2.amazonaws.com/s3fs-public/BF2.jpg
What John said. Just shape like it wasn’t there and fill/fair right at end. Not a big deal, minor cosmetic flaw.
I used the sewing thimbles on my first job. They gave me trouble running sideways and chattering. After this screw-up, I screwed some bridge pieces to prevent the wire going in the splice joint. My last one went perfect. I’m building two boards at once this time.
This screw-up cut half way through the thickness of the board on one side. I won’t be sanding much deck away. I hotwire to final thickness, then just sand a little to smooth the deck.
It sounds like I’ll have to saw into the blank and make a nice notch, then make a matching fill piece.
Anybody know what glue Greg Leohr used in his video? It was white, but he never addressed it in the video. He glued a stringer into EPS with it.
The glue was probably Elmer’s.
If the cut’s halfway through you might want to be careful shaping, it will want to break on that spot (assuming no stringer).
Where’s the male off-cut piece? Did you try to fit that back in there?
I always thought Greg used Roo Glue. Maybe he’ll chime in here at some point.
Roo Glue is good stuff but my experience is that it’s a little hard to find.
Somebody told me about white Gorilla Glue as well…but I have only seen it once.
Never tried Elmer’s…
Does Elmers actually work on EPS Mike?
If you’re really worried…
Line up a straight fence. Get a 1" router bit. Route a straight channel. Go to Home Depot and get a 1" EPS sheet. Cut a piece off the end - it will be exactly the right width.
Glue it in on the bottom of the channel only, not the sides. It will hold true & make your blank solid, but won’t hurt the shaping. Elmer’s will be perfect.
Router bit: $20
1" EPS sheet: $4
Elmers glue: $2
Piece of mind: priceless
Thanks for the help.
I routed out a 1" deep notch and filled it with 1" foam from scrap.
I bonded the piece in using spackle. It’s holding great and didn’t interfere with my shaping last night. Stoked.